Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [136]
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PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN ARENAL
Arenal was just another dormant volcano surrounded by fertile farmland from about AD 1500 until July 29, 1968, when something snapped. Huge explosions triggered lava flows that destroyed three villages, killing about 80 people and 45,000 cattle. The surrounding area was evacuated and roads throughout the region were closed. Eventually, the lava subsided to a relatively predictable flow and life got back to normal. Sort of.
Although it occasionally quietens down for a few weeks or even months, Arenal has been producing menacing ash columns, massive explosions and streamers of glowing molten rock almost daily since 1968. Miraculously, the volcano has retained its picture-perfect conical shape despite constant volcanic activity, though its slopes are now ashen instead of green.
The degree of activity varies from year to year and week to week – even from day to day. Sometimes there can be a spectacular display of flowing red-hot lava and incandescent rocks flying through the air; at other times the volcano subsides to a gentle glow. During the day, the lava isn’t easy to see, but you might still see a great cloud of ash thrown up by a massive explosion. Between 1998 and 2000, the volcano was particularly active (which is when many of those spectacular photos you see in tourist brochures were taken), and while the lava of late hasn’t been quite that photogenic, it’s still an awe-inspiring show.
The best nighttime views of the volcano these days are from its southwestern side, which you can appreciate by taking a night tour or by spending the night at either the Arenal Observatory Lodge or one of several accommodations in El Castillo. However, be aware that clouds can cover the volcano at any time, and on rainy days a tour can be a miserably cold affair – thank goodness for all those hot springs nearby!
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Orientation & Information
The ranger station (Map; 2461-8499; admission to the park US$10; 8am-4pm) is on the western side of the volcano. Most people arrive as part of a group tour, but you can reach it independently. To get here by car, head west from La Fortuna for 15km, then turn left at the ‘Parque Nacional’ sign, and take the 2km good dirt road to the entrance on the left side of the road. You can also take an 8am bus toward Tilarán (tell the driver to drop you off at the park) and catch the 2pm bus back to La Fortuna.
The ranger station complex includes an information center and parking lot. From here, trails lead 3.4km toward the volcano. Rangers will tell you how far you are allowed to go. At the time of writing, this area was not in a danger zone.
If you are heading to Arenal Observatory Lodge, continue driving on the dirt road. About 3km past the ranger station you will come to a small one-lane bridge and parking area; this is a popular (and free) night lava-viewing spot. Shortly after you cross the bridge, you’ll reach a fork in the road; left goes to Arenal Observatory Lodge and right goes to the village of El Castillo. Turn left and continue 2.6km to reach the lodge. You’ll first pay a US$2 entry fee at the front gate. This steep, hard-packed gravel and partially paved road is fine for most vehicles, but a 4WD is recommended.
A taxi from La Fortuna to either the lodge or to El Castillo will cost about US$25.
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Sights & Activities
Arenal was made a national park in 1995, and it is part of the Area de Conservación Arenal, which protects most of the Cordillera de Tilarán. This area is rugged and varied, and the biodiversity is high; roughly half the species of land-dwelling vertebrates (birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians) known in Costa Rica can be found here.
Birdlife is very rich in the park, and includes such specialties as trogons, rufous motmots, fruitcrows