Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [137]
ARENAL OBSERVATORY LODGE
The Arenal Observatory Lodge (Map; reservations 2290-7011, lodge 2479-1070; www.arenalobservatorylodge.com; day pass per person US$4; ) was built in 1987 as a private observatory for the Universidad de Costa Rica. Scientists chose to construct the lodge on a macadamia-nut farm on the south side of Volcán Arenal due to its proximity to the volcano (only 2km away) and its relatively safe location on a ridge. Since its creation, volcanologists from all over the world, including researchers from the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, DC, have come to study the active volcano. Today, the majority of visitors are tourists, though scientists regularly visit the lodge, and a seismograph in the hotel continues to operate around the clock. The lodge is also the only place inside the park where you can legally bed down.
The lodge offers massages (from US$60), guided hikes and all the usual tours at good prices. You can swim in the pool, wander around the macadamia-nut farm or investigate the pine forest that makes up about half of the 347-hectare site. You can also rent horses for US$8 per hour.
A tiny museum (admission free) on the old observation deck has a seismograph and some cool newspaper clippings.
HIKING
From the ranger station (which has trail maps available), you can hike the 1km circular Sendero Los Heliconias, which passes by the site of the 1968 lava flow (vegetation here is slowly sprouting back to life). A 1.5km-long path branches off this trail and leads to an overlook, where you might hear the growling sounds of Arenal volcano.
The Sendero Las Coladas also branches off the Heliconias trail, and wraps around the volcano for 2km past the 1993 lava flow before connecting with the Sendero Los Tucanes (US$4). This trail extends for another 3km through the tropical rainforest at the base of the volcano. To return to the car-parking area, you will have to turn back. You’ll get good views of the summit on the way back since you’re now at a better angle to view it.
From the park headquarters (not the ranger station), there is also the 1.2km Sendero Los Miradores, which leads you down to the shores of the lake, and provides a good angle for viewing the volcano.
Near the highway turnoff to the park, there are two other trail systems worth checking out. The newest is Arenal 1968 (Map; 2462-1212; www.arenal1968.com; adult/child under 10yr US$7/free; 7am-10pm), a system of trails and lookouts along the original 1968 lava flow. It’s located 1.2km from the turnoff, just before the ranger station. Just before the turnoff, Mirador El Silencio (Map; adult/child under 7yr US$6/free;7am-9pm) is a private 556-acre nature reserve with four hiking trails.
Every once in a while, perhaps lulled into a sense of false security by a temporary pause in the activity, someone tries to climb to the crater and peer within it. This is very dangerous – climbers have been killed and maimed by explosions. The problem is not so much that the climber gets killed (that’s a risk the foolhardy insist is their own decision) but rather that the lives of Costa Rican rescuers are placed at risk.
If you’re not staying at Arenal Observatory Lodge, it’s worth visiting as there are 6km of trails in total. A handful of short hikes include views of a nearby waterfall, while sturdy souls could check out recent lava flows (2½ hours), old lava flows (three hours) or the climb to Arenal’s dormant partner, Volcán Chato, whose crater holds an 1100m-high lake only 3km southeast of Volcán Arenal (four hours). For the best nighttime views, a guided hike is suggested. Maps and local English-speaking guides are available for these hikes. The lodge also has a 4.5km bike trail that winds through secondary forest, as well as a 1km sidewalk trail that is completely wheelchair-accessible.
FEELIN’ HOT, HOT, HOT!
Volcanoes are formed over millennia as a result of the normal shifting