Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [139]
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EL CASTILLO
The tiny mountain village of El Castillo is a wonderful alternative to staying in La Fortuna – it’s bucolic, untouristed and perfectly situated to watch the southwesterly lava flows. There are also some delightful accommodations options, and a number of worthwhile sights. Unfortunately you’ll need your own wheels as no buses serve this lovely little enclave.
On the road to El Castillo, SkyTrek (Map; 2645-7070; www.skytrek.com; adult/student/child tram only US$55/44/28, canopy tour US$66/52/42; 7:30am-4pm) runs canopy tours on the south side of Arenal. This canopy tour gives stellar views of Laguna de Arenal, the volcano and the lush rainforest. A silent gondola (the SkyTram) slowly conveys visitors up above the canopy, and at the top you can either tram it back down or fly down the zip lines.
On the only road in town, you’ll find two noteworthy ecological attractions. The El Castillo-Arenal Butterfly Conservatory (2479-1149; www.butterflyconservatory.org; with/without guide US$10/8; 8am-4pm) is run by an American expat named Glenn, whose conservation project far exceeds your normal butterfly garden. He is seeking to understand life cycles and hatching times for different species, and routinely works with students and volunteers to rigorously catalog every scrap of data. Here you’ll find seven different gardens pertaining to each habitat as well as a ranarium, an insect museum, a medicinal herb garden, botanic garden trails and a river walk. The conservatory has one of the largest butterfly exhibitions in Costa Rica, and is one of the few places that raises all of the butterflies and frogs on exhibit. The center proportionally releases these species for repopulating habitats within the area. Glenn is also actively involved in local reforestation programs, and is always looking for a few good volunteers.
Next door is the Arenal EcoZoo (2479-1059; www.arenalecozoo.com; admission adult/child US$13/10; 8:30am-5:30pm), where local snake-handler Victor Hugo Quesada will introduce you to some of the most dangerous snakes in the world like Eliza, a 3.8m-long Burmese python. Victor will also demonstrate how to handle and milk a venomous snake. The EcoZoo, more commonly known as El Serpentario, is also home to many frogs, lizards, iguanas, turtles, scorpions, tarantulas and butterflies.
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Sleeping & Eating
If you’ve got your tent, you can pitch it for free on the shores of Arenal Lake. Across the street from Templo Cristiano church, just before Pizza John’s Jardín Escondido, a dirt road leads down to a beautiful lakeside spot with priceless volcano views.
Essence Arenal (2479-1131; www.essencearenal.com; dm US$16, d with/without bathroom US$43/32; ) Perched on an 100-acre hilltop with incredible volcano and lake views, this ‘boutique hostel’ is one of the most exciting new projects in the Arenal region. Essence owners Nico and Kelly have created the perfect budget resort. The basic but clean rooms have orthopedic mattresses and hypoallergenic pillows. Common area amenities include a fireplace and Japanese soaking tub, cable TV, video games, movie nights, laundry service, cafeteria, hiking trails and small pool with killer views of the lava flows. Possibly the best reason to stay is the onsite restaurant, Essence Demo Cuisine. Resident gourmet chef Isaac Weliver of Chicago lovingly prepares all-vegetarian meals (US$10) right before your eyes. Guests are encouraged to take part in the creation of dishes that will delight even the most hardcore carnivore. It’s not easy getting here, but it’s well worth the trip. After crossing the bridge into El Castillo, turn left towards the Butterfly Conservatory and go 1km uphill; a 4WD is required. The hostel can provide transportation from La Fortuna. English, French, Spanish and German are spoken.
Cabinitas El Castillo Dorado (2479-1146; cabinitaselcastillo@hotmail.com; s/d US$40/55; ) Here you’ll find simple cabins with private warm-water bathrooms and volcano views through enormous picture windows. The onsite