Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [140]
Hummingbird Nest B&B (8835-8711, 2479-1174; www.hummingbirdnestbb.com; s/d incl breakfast US$50/75, 2-night minimum; ) At the entrance to town, you’ll see a small path that leads up the (steep) hill to one of our favorite B&Bs in all of Costa Rica. It’s owned by Ellen, a former Pan Am stewardess and all-round world traveler who has finally found a small slice of paradise to call her own. Her quaint little home has two guest bedrooms with private hot showers and enough frilly pillows to make you miss home – but that’s not even the best part! In her immaculately landscaped front garden, you can soak the night away in a huge outdoor Jacuzzi while watching the lava flow down Arenal. You can even arrange to have a massage (US$45) while watching the lava. Ellen (who’s also charming and full of grace) is active in the local schools, and is a good person to talk to about volunteering in the area.
Hotel Linda Vista del Norte (2479-1551; www.hotellindavista.com; s/d standard US$66/76, ste US$112-146, all incl breakfast; ) The first accommodations you’ll pass on the road into town is a lodge consisting of 25 rooms with smashing views, perched high on a mountaintop. The dated rooms were being remodeled during our recent visit. Even better is the restaurant-bar (mains ₡5500 to ₡8500), lined with picture windows for spectacular views of the Arenal lava flows. There’s also a small infinity pool with swim-up bar.
Rancho Margot (2479-7259; www.ranchomargot.org; ) Like many projects in Costa Rica, Rancho Margot began with such promise. The goal was to create a completely self-sufficient organic farm and resort lodge. Unfortunately, we’ve received many complaints from readers and locals alike, coupled with our own recent experience, and we can no longer recommend staying here. However, day-trippers might be interested in visiting for the many activities on offer including horseback riding, mountain biking, rappelling, kayaking, yoga and fishing.
Pizza John’s Jardín Escondido (2479-1155; mains ₡2500-4250; noon-9pm) On the road to Rancho Margot, look for the small sign leading to this lovely pizzeria hidden at the end of a grassy alley. The intimate, two-story structure is covered in graffiti left by international visitors to this hidden garden. Owner John DiVita of Los Angeles is lively and entertaining, and he’ll have you in stitches with stories about his past life as a punk rocker and his escape from corporate America. John – a second-generation pizza-maker – cooks up an awesome pizza pie and also whips up delicious homemade ice cream. He unapologetically proclaims, ‘I clog arteries, and I’m proud of it.’
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LAGUNA DE ARENAL AREA
About 18km west of La Fortuna, you’ll arrive at a 750m-long causeway across the dam that created Laguna de Arenal, an 88-sq-km lake that is the largest in the country. Although a number of small towns were submerged during the lake’s creation, the lake currently supplies valuable water to Guanacaste, and produces hydroelectricity for the region. High winds also produce power with the aid of huge, steel windmills, though windsurfers and kitesurfers frequently steal a breeze or two.
If you have your own car (or bicycle), this is one of the premier road trips in Costa Rica. The road is lined with odd and elegant businesses, many run by foreigners who have fallen in love with the place, and the scenic views of lakeside forests and Volcán Arenal are about as romantic as they come. Strong winds and high elevations give the lake a temperate feel, and you’ll be forgiven if you suddenly imagine yourself in the English Lakes District or the Swiss countryside.
But, things are changing – quickly. Baby boomers, lured to the area by the cool climate and premier fishing, are snapping up every spot of land with a ‘For Sale’ sign on it. Costa Rican law does not require would-be-realtors to possess a valid real-estate license, and there’s been heavy foreign investment in the region. Costa