Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [142]
Rates for the simply gorgeous two-person cottages – works of art, really – at La Mansion Inn Arenal (2692-8018; www.lamansionarenal.com; cottages incl breakfast US$204-640; ) also include a champagne breakfast, fruit basket, welcome cocktail, canoe access and horse rides, all conspiring with the magnificent views to make this the most romantic inn in the region. The cottages feature huge split-level rooms with private terrace, lake view, high ceiling, Italianate painted walls and arched, bathroom doors. There’s also an ornamental garden featuring Chorotega pottery, an infinity swimming pool that appears to flow into the lake, a pool table, a formal restaurant (four-course dinner excluding wine US$22 to US$38) and a cozy bar shaped like the bow of a ship. It’s 15.5km west of the dam.
Indio Pelado (Bald Indian; 2692-8036; mains ₡2800-6000; 11am-11pm) If you can get past the politically incorrect name, this roadside restaurant cooks up a great pizza in their wood-fired oven, plus pastas and steaks. It’s perched on a steep hill with lake views. There are also 10 basic rooms for rent (doubles US$30) with private bathroom, hot water and patio with views. It’s 17.4km west of the dam.
A serene, German-run escape, La Ceiba Tree Lodge (2692-8050, 8814-4004; www.ceibatree-lodge.com; d US$84; ) is 22km west of the dam and centered on a 500-year-old ceiba tree. Its five spacious, cross-ventilated rooms are entered through Maya-inspired carved doors and decorated with original paintings. Views of Laguna de Arenal, the lush, tropical gardens and utterly lovely dining-hangout area make this mountaintop spot a tranquil retreat from whatever ails you. A small apartment (price negotiable) is also available for rent
Another accommodation option is Villa Decary B&B (2694-4330, from US or Canada 1-800-556-0505; www.villadecary.com; r US$99, casitas with kitchen US$129-149, extra person US$15, all incl breakfast; ), an all-round winner with bright, spacious, well-furnished rooms, delicious full breakfasts and fantastic hosts. Five rooms have private hot shower, a queen and a double bed, bright Latin American bedspreads and artwork. They also have balconies with excellent views of the woodland immediately below and the lake just beyond. There are also three separate casitas with a kitchenette. Paths into the woods behind the house give good opportunities for bird-watching and wildlife-watching, and there’s a good chance that howler monkeys will wake you in the morning. Guests can borrow binoculars and a bird guide to identify what they see. Decaray (named for a French botanist who discovered a new species of palm) also boasts one of the best collections of palm trees in Costa Rica. The American-owned B&B is family-friendly and gay-friendly. It’s 24.5km west of the dam, and 2km east of Nuevo Arenal.
If you’re a gourmand suffering from a lack of memorable cuisine, make absolutely sure to book dinner reservations at the Gingerbread Hotel & Restaurant (2694-0039, 8351-7815; www.gingerbreadarenal.com; r incl breakfast US$100; 5-9pm Tue-Sat, lunch by reservation only), arguably the best restaurant in northwestern Costa Rica (if not the entire country). Better yet, stay at the charming boutique hotel, where the beds are sumptuous and the rooms adorned with murals by renowned local artists – this way, you’ll get homemade preserves and pastries at breakfast. With the freshest local fare providing the foundation of his weekly menus, Chef Eyal turns out transcendent meals (mains US$9 to US$40, wines US$30 to US$200) and is choosy about his wine list, emphasizing top Chilean and Spanish vino. And yet there’s no pretension in this very cozy, out-of-the-way, lake-view dining room with walls covered in paintings by artists in the community (including manager Coryn). A word to the wise: do not