Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [143]
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Nuevo Arenal
The only good-sized town between La Fortuna and Tilarán is the small Tico settlement of Nuevo Arenal, which is 27km west of the dam, or one hour drive from La Fortuna. In case you were wondering what happened to the old Arenal (no, it wasn’t wiped out by the volcano), it’s about 27m below the surface of Laguna de Arenal. In order to create a large enough reservoir for the dam, the Costa Rican government had to make certain, er, sacrifices, which ultimately resulted in the forced relocation of 3500 people. Today, the humble residents of Nuevo Arenal don’t seem to be fazed by history, especially since they now own premium lakeside property.
Nuevo Arenal is something of a rest stop for travelers heading to Tilarán and points beyond, though it’s certainly a pleasant (and cheap) place to spend the night. The tiny downtown also has a gas station, a Banco de Costa Rica, SuperCompro and a bus stop near the park.
SLEEPING & EATING
Cabinas Catalina (8819-6793; d US$18; ) Across from the gas station, find these budget digs which consist of sterile cabinas with concrete walls and warmish showers that will do in a pinch. The onsite restaurant, Moya’s Place, serves pizza and other local favorites.
Aurora Hotel (2694-4071; r with/without views US$30/20; ) With spectacular volcano and lake views, this American-run hotel on the east side of the square has simple but clean rooms with hot-water bathroom, cable TV and patio. Amenities include a pool, Jacuzzi and sauna. The hotel also houses the office of Paradise Adventures; owner Jonathan can arrange wakeboarding trips and other water sports.
Bar y Restaurant Bambú (2694-4048; mains ₡1100-3500; 6am-10pm) In addition to doing good casados and gallos (not to mention another round of beer on Friday night when there’s live music), the owner has tourist information and can arrange fishing trips, guided hikes and horseback rides.
Lava Java (2694-4753; mains ₡4000-9000; 6am-8:30pm; ) Check your email here (₡500 per hour) on the main road as you sip a fresh smoothie or slurp down a quick coffee. Lunch and dinner are also served.
Restaurant La Casa de Doña Celina (2694-4609; mains ₡2200-5000; 7am-9pm) This is just your basic soda, next door to Lava Java, but the views make your lunch taste better, as do the retro diner tables on the patio, and you can work up your appetite with a game of pinball.
Rumours Bar & Grill (8330-4123; mains ₡2200-3500; 11am-midnight) Next door to Banco de Costa Rica, this loud restaurant is popular with gringos and Ticos alike. The menu features American and Tex-Mex favorites like hamburgers, chile con carne, quesadillas and grilled cheese sandwiches.
Tom’s Pan (2694-4547; mains ₡4500-8000; 7am-4pm Mon-Sat; ) Better known as ‘the German Bakery,’ this slightly overrated landmark is a famous rest stop for road-trippers heading to Tilarán. Its breads, strudels and cakes are all homemade and delicious, though heartier eaters will rave over the big German breakfasts, goulash with homemade noodles, spätzle, bratwurst, weisswurst and real German beer.
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Nuevo Arenal to Tilarán
Continue west and around the lake from Nuevo Arenal, where the scenery becomes even more spectacular just as the road gets progressively worse. Tilarán is the next ‘big’ city, with a reasonable selection of hotels and restaurants, plus roads and buses that can take you to Liberia, Monteverde or beyond.
SLEEPING & EATING
All attractions below are listed in order of their distance from Nuevo Arenal.
Agua Inn (2694-4818, 8981-4735; www.aguainn.com; d incl breakfast US$78, apt US$141; ) The sounds of nature will lull you to sleep at this intimate B&B on the banks of the raging Río Cote that overlooks a primary rainforest and beautiful pool. Four rooms in a kaleidoscope of colors all featuring full-sized comfy beds, fan, hot-water bathroom and tiled floors. There’s also a one-bedroom apartment with full kitchen (three nights minimum) and a studio with a