Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [144]
Chalet Nicholas (2694-4041; www.chaletnicholas.com; d incl breakfast US$79, extra person US$15; ) This attractive mountain chalet 2.7km west of Nuevo Arenal is owned by Catherine and John Nicholas, though their co-owners, five very playful Great Danes (don’t be alarmed when they come bounding out to greet you), really know how to steal the show. Two downstairs rooms have private bathroom, while the upstairs loft has two linked bedrooms (for families or groups) and shares a downstairs bathroom. On clear days, all rooms have views of the volcano at the end of the lake. The owners enjoy natural history and have a living collection of dozens of orchids, which attract numerous species of birds. This place has many repeat guests.
Lucky Bug B&B & Caballo Negro Restaurant (2694-4515; www.luckybugcr.com; r incl breakfast US$69-120; ) Set on a rainforest lagoon, the bungalows at the Lucky Bug are not only blissfully isolated but feature unique art and decorative details by local artisans. The Caballo Negro (Black Horse; mains US$8 to US$14; open 8am to 8pm) serves excellent organic, vegetarian and European fare handcrafted by owner Monica, who speaks English and German and makes a mean schnitzel. Also here is the fabulously quirky Lucky Bug Gallery, which features high-quality work from local and national artisans, not least of whom are Monica’s triplets Kathryn, Alexandra and Sabrina. The artistry really is outstanding, and should you fall in love with a painting of a bug or something bigger, they can ship it for you. It’s 3km west of Nuevo Arenal.
Lago Coter Ecolodge (2440-6768; www.ecolodgecostarica.com; s/d/tr standard US$76/87/99, cabin US$93/105/122, all incl breakfast; ) This environmentally friendly lodge caters mostly to visitors that come on a complete package, including meals, rental equipment and guided naturalist hikes. Built in 1990 with an endowment from the World Bank, the hotel is committed to preserving its 250 hectares of primary-forest private reserve and 50 hectares of secondary-growth forest and pastures. Standard rooms with hot-water shower are in a handsome wood-and-stone lodge that has a large fireplace and a relaxation area with billiards, TV and a small library. There are also 14 larger cabins that have picture windows overlooking the lake. Go 4.5km west of Nuevo Arenal then turn 3km down an unpaved road.
La Rana de Arenal (2694-4031; www.dorislakearenal.com; s/d incl breakfast US$30/45; ) Watch out for the hairpin turnoff at the driveway to La Rana, a quaint German-run spot with seven comfortable rooms. The restaurant (mains US$6 to US$11; open from 11am to 10pm) serves good international food, with an emphasis on German cuisine, in an airy upstairs pub-style dining room. There are tennis courts on the property, which is excellent for bird-watching, and the staff can arrange horseback and boat tours. It’s 5.7km from Nuevo Arenal.
WORLD-CLASS WIND
Some of the world’s most consistent winds blow across northwestern Costa Rica, and this consistency attracts windsurfers from all over the world. Laguna de Arenal is rated one of the three best windsurfing spots in the world, mainly because of the predictability of the winds. From December to April, the winds reliably provide great rides for board sailors who gather on the southwest corner of the lake for long days of fun on the water. Windsurfing is possible in other months, too, but avoid September and October, which are considered the worst.
Although there are plenty of fly-by-night operators, there are really only two places you should consider for all your surfing needs. The best company for windsurfing is Tico Wind (2692-2002, 8813-7274; www.ticowind.com; rentals half-day US$42, full-day incl lunch US$78, lessons per hr US$50), which sets up a camp on the western shores of the lake each