Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [145]
Hotel Tilawa has emerged as a popular destination for windsurfers (and increasingly kitesurfers, too), and has an excellent selection of sailboards for rent at comparable rates. Although some folks think that the high winds, waves and world-class conditions are too much for a beginner to handle, the folks at Tilawa disagree. They run the reader-recommended Tilawa Windsurf Center (www.windsurfcostarica.com; half-/full day US$100/150), offering windsurfing and kitesurfing lessons. After the first day, lessons become more expensive (US$60 per hour) and cater to all skill levels – once you’ve learned the basics, self-motivated practice with short instructional periods is the best way to learn. If you’re staying at the hotel, you can also take advantage of discount rates on rental equipment (half-/full day US$45/55).
Laguna de Arenal is also now attracting wakeboarders. Paradise Adventures Costa Rica (8856-3618; www.paradise-adventures-costa-rica.com; per hr US$150), based at the Aurora Hotel in Nuevo Arenal, has the latest wakeboarding equipment. Rates are for up to seven people including equipment, lessons and boat ride. Owner Jonathan can create a variety of tailored packages, including leisure boat rides.
It gets a little chilly on Laguna de Arenal, and rentals usually include wet suits, as well as harnesses and helmet. For a warm change, head up to Bahía Salinas on Costa Rica’s far northwestern coast. Resorts here offer windsurfing year-round, and though the wind may not be quite as world class as at Laguna de Arenal, it comes pretty close. The seasons are the same as for the lake.
Café y Macadamia de Costa Rica (2692-2000; cafeymacadamia@yahoo.com; pastries & coffee ₡1000-2000, mains ₡1200-4500; 8:30am-5pm) Pull over for a cup of coffee – and maybe a salad or Thai chicken curry, and leave room for a tasty pastry – all best savored along with the spectacular views of the lake (or clouds and fog, as the weather dictates). The gigantic, wood-floored room and equally large outdoor terrace alone make it worth a stop to stretch your legs. It’s 10.5km west of Nuevo Arenal.
Casa Delagua (2692-2101; mains ₡1000-4000; 6am-5:30pm) Two parts art gallery, one part music and bookstore, and one part cafe, this cool roadside shop is worth a detour to check out the amazing works by local artist Juan Carlos Ruiz. The restaurant serves breakfast and lunch specials including salads, fish and fajitas. It’s 15km west of Nuevo Arenal.
Equus Bar-Restaurant (3-9pm Fri, 11am-10pm Sat, 11am-9pm Sun) This lakeside spot 14.5km west of Nuevo Arenal is perennially popular among windsurfers looking to brag about their exploits over a cold Imperial. There’s a good mix of Costa Rican and Western dishes, and on some nights there’s live music here.
Mystica Resort (2692-1001; www.mysticaretreat.com; s/d incl breakfast US$96/116, villas US$226; ) About 15km west of Nuevo Arenal, this Mediterranean-style retreat lies on a hill 1km after the Tierras Morenas turnoff, and is another good midrange option. The resort has several comfortable, colorful rooms with blue tiles, vibrant woven bedspreads, hot showers and volcano views. Even if you’re not staying here, it’s a great place to stop for a wood-fired pizza lunch (mains ₡2500 to ₡5000, open from noon to 9pm). The Essence, a yoga and meditation center, is on the grounds for all your holistic-healing needs (treatments US$55 to US$60).
Hotel Tilawa (2695-5050; www.hotel-tilawa.com; d US$68-98; ) It’s something