Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [146]
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TILARáN
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Near the southwestern end of Laguna de Arenal, the small town of Tilarán has a prosperous air to it – probably because it has served as a regional ranching center since long before there was a lake to speak of. Every year, this tradition is honored on the last weekend in April with a rodeo that’s popular with Tico visitors, and on June 13 with a bullfight-filled fiesta that’s dedicated to patron San Antonio.
Because it’s situated on the slopes of the Cordillera de Tilarán, this little hub is a much cooler alternative (in climate and atmosphere) to, say, Cañas, and makes a pleasant stop between La Fortuna and Monteverde.
The city also boasts several supermarkets, ATMs, gas stations and internet cafes. Check email while waiting for your bus at Cybercafé Tilarán (2695-9010; per hr ₡600; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat), 25m west of the bus terminal.
If you’re passing through here on your way to Monteverde, take a detour to visit Viento Fresco Waterfalls (2695-3434; www.vientofresco.net; adult/student/child 6-12yr US$15/12/10; 7:30am-5pm), a series of five cascades including the amazing Arco Iris (Rainbow Falls), which drops 75m into a refreshing shallow pool that’s perfect for swimming. You can also pitch a tent here (US$20 per person, including park admission) or take a horseback-riding tour (US$65 including lunch, three hours). It’s located 11km south of Tilarán on the road to Santa Elena/Monteverde.
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Sleeping & Eating
All of the hotels listed below have private warm(ish) showers.
Hotel Tilarán (2695-5043; r with/without bathroom US11/7; ) If you can get one of the rooms toward the back, this is a decent budget choice on the west side of Parque Central. The tiny rooms have cable TV and are clean enough to lay your head for a night.
Hotel Mary (2695-5479; per person US$21; ) On the south side of Parque Central, Hotel Mary is an excellent option with clean rooms that feature the kind of linens your grandma would love. Plan on street noise in the parkside rooms, or just enjoy it from the balcony. The attached restaurant (mains ₡1500 to ₡3500; open from 6am to midnight) has a mix of some Tico and Chinese favorites.
Hotel El Sueño (2695-5347; s/d standard US$20/30, with balcony US$25/35) Near the bus terminal, this beautiful hotel (in an ageing, baroque sort of way) has antique decorated rooms, but it’s worth splurging for the balcony, where you can bask in the faded glory. Downstairs is Restaurante El Parque (2695-5425; mains ₡1600 to ₡3000; open from 7am to 11pm) with a selection of bocas that discriminating barflies also appreciate.
Hotel La Carreta (2695-6593; www.lacarretacr.com; s/d incl breakfast US$40/55; ) Owners Rita and Ed have beautifully refurbished these skylit rooms, installing orthopedic beds, reading lights and hand-painted murals by local artists. In addition to the indoor dining area, there’s a pleasant garden terrace for sipping coffee and reading something you’ve picked up from the book exchange in the front room. Breakfasts feature homemade pastries, and nonguests can also stop by for lunch. It’s located directly behind the big church.
Five Corners Grill (8887-7175; mains ₡2800-4000, 8am-2pm; ) You’ll smell the wonderful barbecue aroma long before you even see this new restaurant, 4km east of Tilarán. The menu specializes in what owner Jim Aoki calls ‘gringo comfort food’ – eggs Benedict, nachos, bratwurst, peanut butter and jelly milkshakes, french fries and the best flame-grilled burgers on Laguna de Arenal. It’s only open for breakfast and lunch,