Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [160]
Quetzal Inn (2645-6076; www.quetzalinn.com; s/d $35/45, without balcony $30/40, all incl breakfast; ) Up the same quiet alley as Pensión Colibrí is this lovely little lodge. With wood-plank walls, high sloped ceilings and green surroundings, this family-run inn embodies the perfect combination of central location, thoughtfully designed accommodations and a personable, hospitable ambience.
Sunset Hotel (2645-5048; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$30/40/55; ) About 1.5km out of Santa Elena toward Reserva Santa Elena, this intimate guesthouse is in a secluded location with great views of the Golfo de Nicoya and ample opportunities for bird-watching on private trails. Clean, standard rooms with porches have two little luxuries: real hot showers (not suicide machines) and toilets with enough pressure to flush paper. German and English are spoken.
Arco Iris Ecolodge (2645-5067; www.arcoirislodge.com; s US$30-64, d US$40-128, cabins US$107-200, honeymoon ste US$193; ) This clutch of pretty cabins is on a little hill overlooking Santa Elena and the surrounding forests, and has the privacy and intimacy of a mountain retreat. The lodge features a system of private trails that wind throughout the property, including one that leads to a lookout point where you can see the Pacific on a clear day. There are a variety of different room sizes and styles to choose from, so you can either go rustic or live it up. If you’re traveling in a group, the four- to five-person split-level cabin is highly recommended – it’s adorned with rich tapestries and features volcanic rock–laden showers. The multilingual German owners are delightful, and they make excellent meals that sometimes feature organic vegetables grown on the grounds. Breakfast is an additional US$7. English, Spanish, German and French spoken.
Hotel Don Taco (2645-5263; www.cabinasdontaco.com; d standard/cabinas incl breakfast US$34/51, cabañas s/d US$40/62; ) The name sounds a little silly, but with big porches, great murals and an outdoor dining and chill-out area, this spot is fabulous. Cabañas come with TV, refrigerator and a balcony overlooking the Golfo de Nicoya. It’s just north of Santa Elena proper, so you can rest easy at night.
Mariposa B&B (2645-5013; vmfamilia@costarricense.cr; s/d incl breakfast US$35/55; ) Just 1.5km from the Monteverde reserve, this friendly family-run place has simple but very nice rooms with private hot showers, all nestled into the forest. In addition to breakfast (a real breakfast of fruits, pancakes, eggs and tortillas), there’s also a little balcony for observing wildlife, because nothing is cuter than a passel of pizotes (coatis).
MIDRANGE
Finca Terra Viva (2645-5454; www.terravivacr.com; d US$40, extra person US$5, 3 meals extra US$14, casitas US$60; ) This 135-hectare finca 3.5km or so out on the road toward Reserva Santa Elena is being gradually returned to the forest; about 60% is already there. In the meantime, cattle, pigs, goats, horses and chickens offer guests a typically Costa Rican rural experience – kids love this place. Each of the six rustic, wooden rooms sleeps up to four and has a private hot shower; a few free-standing casitas (cottages), each sleeping four and fitted with kitchenette, are available for those desiring more privacy. Owner Federico is a well-known naturalist and guide who has long envisioned living in a finca that combines education, conservation and farming – this is the result. Horseback riding can be arranged, and you can try your hand at milking cows and making cheese at the organic dairy.
La Colina Lodge (2645-5009; www.lacolinalodge.com; camping per person US$5, d with/without bathroom incl breakfast US$52/44; ) This is the former Flor Mar opened in 1977 by Marvin Rockwell, one of the area’s original Quakers, who was jailed for refusing to sign up for the draft in 1949 and then spent three months driving down from Alabama. Nowadays, the gringo owners are as