Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [161]
Swiss Hotel Miramontes (2645-5152; www.swisshotelmiramontes.com; s/d US$45/56, d chalets US$85, all incl breakfast; ) Just outside Santa Elena on the road to Juntas is this charming European-inspired retreat, well situated in a grove of pine trees and tropical flowers. Eight rooms of varying size come with fabulous private hot-water bathroom, while the two chalets have a little more breathing space, and a private porch where you can kick off your shoes. Kids love the expansive landscaped grounds, with trails through the well-stocked orchid garden (US$5 for nonguests) and everyone enjoys the huge, pretty chalets. The restaurant (mains ₡2200 to ₡5600, open from 1pm to 10pm) specializes in Swiss treats and, as this is a Swiss-run Costa Rican hotel, staff speak English, German, French and Spanish.
Hotel El Viandante (2645-6475; www.hotelelviandante.com; d $60 incl breakfast; ) Perched on a small but steep hill with views of the gulf, this small B&B is a great choice for families. It’s not superfancy, but the 12 recently remodeled rooms have pinewood interiors with high ceilings, huge private bathroom with hot water and hairdryers, cable TV, orthopedic mattresses and baby cribs on request. Enjoy an American breakfast with a view from the top-floor lounge. Hosts Grace and Renzo are wonderfully hospitable and have a wealth of local knowledge. This is the only place in town that rents bikes.
Monteverde Rustic Lodge (2645-6256; www.monteverderusticlodge.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$42/65/75; ) The tree-branch posts and tree-trunk table tops play along with the theme, but the remodeled rooms are spotless, comfortable and not at all rustic. Rooms have private hot-water shower and tile floors and open on to the garden. It’s a short walk from the center of Santa Elena and the Tico owners will happily arrange tours for you.
Nidia Lodge (2645-5236, 2645-6082; www.nidialodge.com; s/d standard US$58/76, deluxe US$81/99, junior ste US$93/116, all incl breakfast; ) The proprietor of Pensión Flor de Monteverde, Eduardo Venegas Castro, has a beautiful new inn named for his wife. The area is peaceful and just steps away from the Santuario Ecológico, so there’s a good chance that wildlife will grace your front doorstep and the motmots will hang out in the trees out back. First-rate accommodations feature hot water and private balconies upstairs, with free wi-fi to boot. There’s a nice restaurant where breakfast is served. Nidia provides a superchill presence around the inn, and Eduardo, an expert naturalist, clearly revels in offering guided walks of the area’s forests.
Mirador Lodge (2645-5354; www.miradorlodge.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$82/92/102; ) About 9km north of Santa Elena, the Quesada family has established this 55-hectare private reserve in the mists of virgin cloud forest. With views of Arenal, the wooden cabins have gas-heated water, and some have wood-burning stove. There’s generator-powered electricity, but candles are provided as a backup, and it’s advisable to bring a flashlight. The lodge provides free transfers from town, and transportation in the area for a small fee. The owners also run reputable horseback-riding tours.
Cloud Forest Lodge (2645-5058; www.cloudforestlodge.com; s/d/tr/q US$90/102/113/125; ) Simple, wood-walled rooms at this hilltop lodge have hot-water shower, but lack extras like satellite TV. Instead, there are trails to walk, birds and sometimes sloths to be seen in the garden and surrounding cloud forest, and views of the Golfo de Nicoya. The helpful staff can arrange tours. It’s a pleasant walk into town, but you might want a car to get around.
Los Pinos Cabañas y Jardines (2645-5252; www.lospinos.net; cabañas standard/junior ste/family US$65/80/125; ) Eleven free-standing cabañas are scattered around the peaceful, forested gardens