Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [162]
Hotel Claro de Luna (2645-5269; www.clarodelunahotel.com; s standard/deluxe US$59/68, d standard/deluxe US$68/88, all incl breakfast; ) This sweet mountain chalet just southwest of Santa Elena is the perfect getaway for lovers. If you squint your eyes just a bit while staring at the hotel’s Swiss-inspired architecture, you could convince yourself you’re summering high up in the Alps. All nine rooms have hardwood floors and ceilings, and feature luxurious, hot-water bathroom with regal tiles.
El Sol (2645-5838; www.elsolnuestro.com; d small/large cabins US$60/80; ) Located 5km outside of Santa Elena near Guacimal is this ‘sunny’ spot. This small farm with two guest cabins is at a lower elevation than Santa Elena – the climate is drier and the sun is warmer. The owners of this highly recommended accommodations, Elisabeth and Ignacio, are a German-Spanish couple who will pamper you with strong massages and delicious home cooking. Their teenage son, Javier, is a great guide around the private trails on foot or on horseback.
Hotel de Montaña Monteverde (2645-5046; www.monteverdemountainhotel.com; r standard/superior US$78/135; ) Opened in 1978 as the first top-end accommodations in Monteverde, this hotel has had a recent renovation to show off its expansive lobby views to better advantage; though the rooms didn’t benefit from any added character, they’re still perfectly comfortable. Standard rooms have wood accents, thick mattresses and cable TV, and they can sleep up to three people. The superior rooms can accommodate up to four people, and they have a huge bathtub, a private balcony and a minibar. The spacious gardens and forests of the 15-hectare property are pleasant to walk around, and there’s also a sauna and Jacuzzi.
Hotel Finca Valverde (2645-5157; www.monteverde.co.cr; d standard/cabin/superior US$87/93/111, extra person US$17-23; ) Just outside Santa Elena, this working coffee farm is a great choice if you’re looking for something a bit different. Cabins each have two bare units with private hot-water shower, an upstairs loft and a balcony, though the real reason you’re here is to soak up the rural atmosphere. Junior suites are only slightly more expensive, though they have full bathroom and cable TV. A simple but pleasant restaurant (mains ₡2300 to ₡6200; open from 6am to 9:30pm) serves good fish and meat dishes as well as vegetables from the backyard garden. The attached bar is popular with locals.
Vista Verde Lodge (8380-1517; www.info-monteverde.com; s/d standard US$87/107, junior ste US$93/116, extra person US$14, all incl breakfast; ) When you really want to get away from it all, take the signed side road just east of Selvatura and head 2.5 rough kilometers (4WD only) to this marvelous lodge, where you’ll fall asleep to the sounds of the surrounding rainforest. Wood-paneled rooms with picture windows take in views of Volcán Arenal, and the current direction of the lava flow means that on a clear night you will see plenty of fireworks. There’s also a great common area where you can unwind in front of the TV and warm your feet beside the fire. Some 4km of trails through the primary forest surrounding this gorgeous spot can be explored on horseback. Staff can pick you up from the airport with advance notice, and they provide a shuttle service into Santa Elena. If you’re expecting luxury at this price, look elsewhere (plus generator power can mean dim lights and quickly cooling showers), but solitude you’ll find in spades.
Trapp Family Lodge (2645-5858; www.trappfam.com; d superior/ste US$96/113,