Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [166]
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Chimera (2645-6081; tapas ₡1700-5000; 11:30am-9:30pm) Latin-infused tapas are complemented by an excellent wine list featuring robust reds like Chilean Syrah-cabernets and crisp whites like pinot grigio. Dine alfresco at the trellis patio or the big-windowed dining room with beautiful jungle views. Charming staff will lay out a spread of cocktails (like kiwi caipirinhas, with lime, sugar and rum) and tapas like sea bass with passion-fruit cream and spicy mayo, or fried yucca with chipotle garlic aioli, all on white tablecloths.
Musashi (2645-7160; sushi ₡2500-4000, rolls & mains ₡2500-9000; 11am-11pm Tue-Sun) Who ever thought you’d find good sushi in the middle of the rainforest? But look no further than this tiny restaurant in the heart of Santa Elena. Venezuelan owner Jesus is a classically trained sushi chef with an eye for perfection. The sushi boats are a good deal for groups. You’ll also find other favorite Japanese dishes including tepanyaki, teriyaki and lunch bento box specials.
La Pizzería de Johnny (2645-5066; www.pizzeriadejohnny.com; mains ₡2200-8300; 11:30am-10pm) Woodfired, thin-crust pizzas will warm you right up after a long hike through the cloud forests (or up the hill from Santa Elena). The warm atmosphere and lovely dining area makes it feel as though you are having a nice dinner out without paying the price.
Sabor Español (2645-5387; saborespanola@hotmail.com; mains ₡3000-7500; noon-9pm) She’s from Barcelona. He’s from Ibiza. And together, Heri and Montse have created one of the most authentic and lovely Spanish restaurants in Costa Rica. The couple specialize in paella, fresh fish, meats and chicken. We loved the stuffed avocado appetizer, followed by shrimp flambéed in whiskey. Wash it down with some of the best sangria this side of the Atlantic. The ambience is super tranquillo and well worth the trip 2km north of downtown.
Restaurante Campesino (2645-6883; mains ₡3000-10,000; 9am-11pm) Relax beneath about 80 stuffed animals won from machines by the dexterous owner, who also serves up amazing casados, salads and a variety of sublime ceviche with a smile. The blue shopfront also has our favorite mural in town, and we’ve never seen toilet cozies quite like these.
Morpho’s Restaurant (2645-5607; mains ₡3800-10,000; 11am-9pm; ) This romantic, downtown restaurant spices up typical Costa Rican food by adding a gourmet flair. Casados feature a variety of European-influenced sauces (think sea bass in a fruity demiglaze), and are served with a traditional batido (fruit shake) or a more sophisticated glass of wine. The menu also has a good variety of vegetarian dishes.
Restaurante de Lucía (2645-5337; www.costa-rica-monteverde.com; mains ₡4000-8500; 11am-9pm) On the same road as El Jardín de las Mariposas, this Chilean-owned place is Monteverde’s most famous restaurant. Chef José Belmar, who speaks more languages then you and your friend put together, regularly chats to guests and asks for feedback on the cuisine, and dishes (a good mix of Italian and South American specialties) are always flawless, and reasonably priced.
Tree House Restaurant & Café (2645-5751; www.canopydining.com; mains ₡4000-9000; 6am-10pm; ) Built around a half-century-old higuerón (fig) tree, this hip cafe serves up your favorite Mexican dishes from burritos to huevos rancheros (eggs served with tortillas and a tomato sauce), and has a healthy selection of salads and sandwiches. The burlap-bag ceiling and jungle-themed murals painted on the yellow stucco walls surround the airy atrium. It’s a cool, lively space to have a bite, linger over wine and sometimes catch good live music.
Trio (2645-7254; mains ₡5000-7000; lunch & dinner) From