Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [167]
Pizzería Tramonti (2645-6120; mains ₡5000-12,500; 11am-10pm Mon-Sat) It’s worth the trip out here if you hanker for authentic Italian, as the pizzas are baked in a wood-fired oven, and the pastas and seafood are consistently fresh. The atmosphere is also relaxed yet romantic, and the picture windows are perfect for admiring the cloud forest and passers-by.
Sofia (2645-7017; mains ₡6800-9000; 11:30am-9:30pm) Sofia has established itself on the Monteverde restaurant scene as one of the best places in town with its Nuevo Latino cuisine – a modern fusion of traditional Latin American cooking styles. The ambience is flawless – soft lighting, hip music, picture windows, romantic candle settings, sloping wooden ceilings, pastel paintwork and potent cocktails to lighten the mood.
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Drinking & Entertainment
Monteverde and Santa Elena nightlife generally involves a guided hike into one of the reserves, but since this misty green mountain draws artists and dreamers, there’s a smattering of regular cultural offerings. When and if there’s anything going on, you’ll see it heavily advertised around town with flyers. Look for events at the Paseo de Stella Auditorium, located in the Paseo de Stella shopping center, or Bromelias Music Garden (2645-6272; www.bromeliasmusicgarden.com), the long-running and constantly metamorphosing haven for the arts in Monteverde.
If you desire aural pleasure, pop into the Tree House Restaurant & Café (2645-5751; www.canopydining.com) for nightly live music.
Unicornio Discotec (noon-midnight) is an almost exclusively local hangout near the northern end of the soccer field; it’s the only place in town that has Imperial on tap (pro), but also has karaoke (con). Two popular bars that usually have a good mix of locals and tourists are Amigos Bar (2645-5071; noon-1am), a great place to drink and shoot pool, and the Taberna Los Valverde (2645-5157; www.monteverde.co.cr; 11am-1am), at Hotel Finca Valverde, which has a dance floor made for shaking your moneymaker.
Other nightlife venues worth checking out include the following.
La Guarida del Sapo (2645-7010; 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat) This cathedral of music built by the Hotel El Sapo Dorado resembles an old church – right down to the stained-glass windows with Costa Rican nature scenes. But about the only praying you may do here is to the porcelain god. Fridays are the most lively nights when the place is transformed into a discotheque. There’s live music on most Mondays and Saturdays. The international restaurant (mains ₡6000 to ₡12,000) serves everything from filet mignon to escargot. A small cover charge applies for special events.
Housed in Santa Elena’s original tavern, Matáe Caña (2645-4883; noon-late Tue-Sun) is a chic new lounge that fills the void long been present in Monteverde. Opened in late 2009 by the folks behind Pensión Santa Elena, Matáe Caña features the same passion and attention to detail. A waterfall graces one entire wall of the bar. There are numerous padded nooks and crannies where you can sip a drink with your date. During warm weather, guests can lounge on beds in the outdoor patio. The women’s bathroom even has its own lounge with couch and huge mirrors. The bar has a good selection of rums and specialty drinks; don’t miss the Howler Monkey Shot. The lounge also hosts occasional live salsa bands.
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Shopping
During our recent visit, a very large, looming and ugly shopping