Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [178]
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Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio
They say when God finished painting the sky blue, he washed his paintbrushes in the Río Celeste. The heavenly blue-colored river, waterfalls and ponds of Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio are one of the most spectacular natural phenomena in Costa Rica.
Established in 1976, this magical 184-sq-km national park remains one of the most secluded and least-visited parks in the country due to the dearth of public transportation and park infrastructure. As a result, it remains a blissfully pristine rainforest abundant with wildlife. Soaring 1916m above the cloud rainforest is the park’s namesake, Volcán Tenorio, which actually consists of three peaked craters: Montezuma, Tenorio I (the tallest) and Tenorio II.
Your first stop will be the Puesto El Pilón ranger station (2200-0135; www.sinac.go.cr/acat_volcantenorio.php; admission US$10; 8am-4pm), which houses a small exhibit of photographs and dead animals. Pick up a free English or Spanish hiking map.
The well-signed trail begins at the ranger station parking lot and winds 1.5km through the rainforest until you reach an intersection. Turn left and climb down a very steep and slippery staircase to the Catarata de Río Celeste, a milky-blue waterfall that cascades 30m down the rocks, like heavy cream being poured out of a jug and into a fantastically aquamarine pool.
Climb back up to the main trail and continue 700m further until you reach the technicolored Pozo Azul (blue lagoon). The trail loops around the lagoon 400m until you arrive at the confluence of rivers known as Los Teñidores (The Stainers). Here, two small rivers – one whitish blue and one brownish yellow – mix together to create the blueberry milk of Río Celeste.
For the final reward, continue 300m to the Aguas Termales (hot springs) to soak your weary muscles. This is the only place in the park where you’re permitted to enter the water; bring your own towel and swimsuit. Plans for a circuit trail are afoot, but for now the trail ends here. Retrace your steps to return to the ranger station. Hiking to the volcano crater is strictly prohibited.
Allow three to four hours to complete the entire hike. It’s only about a 7km round-trip, but parts of the trail are steep and rocky. And because this is a rainforest, the trail can be wet and muddy almost year-round. Good hiking shoes or boots are a must. After your hike, you’ll find an area to wash your footwear near the trailhead.
SLEEPING & EATING
There are a few simple sodas in Bijagua, but other than that, you’ll probably be eating at your lodge.
Around Bijagua
Cabinas Vista Miravalles (2466-8015; cabinasvistamiravalles@hotmail.com; s/d/tr US$14/22/27; ) Located in the heart of Bijagua behind the Salon 5R bar, these little pink cabins are a good budget option. Each has a double and single bed, private bathroom with hot water, TV and fan.
Tenorio Lodge (2466-8282; www.tenoriolodge.com; s/q/tr/q incl breakfast US$90/95/120/135; ) Located on a lush hilltop with amazing views of Volcán Tenorio, Tenorio Lodge has some of the most romantic and private accommodations around. There are eight roomy bungalows, each containing two orthopedic beds (one king and one queen), private bathroom with solar-heated water, and panoramic windows and balcony with volcano views. The gorgeous lodge has a lovely restaurant featuring a daily changing dinner menu. On the 17-acre property, you’ll find two ponds, a heliconia garden and two hot tubs to enjoy after a long day of hiking. It’s located 1km south of downtown.
Celeste Mountain Lodge (2278-6628; www.celestemountainlodge.com; s/d/tr incl all meals US$130/160/190, child US$25; ) One of the most innovative and sustainable hotels we’ve ever seen, Celeste