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Mountain Lodge is proof that one can be ecofriendly without giving up comfort or style. The French-owned, Belgian-designed contemporary hotel is absolutely stunning – an open-air hilltop lodge in the shadow of Volcán Tenorio. It was built in 2007 using ecofriendly materials such as recycled wood, plastic, 1000 old truck tires and coconut fiber as seat cushions. Lamps, sculptures and other decorative items are made of scrap metal. Hot water comes from solar power, and cooking gas is partially produced by kitchen waste. There’s even an ingenious hot tub heated by burning salvaged wood. Nothing in the building was imported, except for French owner Joel Marchel. The former tour operator and self-proclaimed ‘radical’ believes we all need to change the way we travel, including ‘unplugging’ on holiday, so you won’t find TV, internet, hairdryer or other gizmos here. The 18 rooms are comfy and stylish, but bathrooms are purposefully small to reduce water consumption. The property features a 2.3km interpretive hiking trail and is located in one of Costa Rica’s prime bird-watching areas. The price includes all meals at the amazing, organic restaurant. The lodge is located at the end of a 3.5km-long, very rough (4WD required) access road that begins at the north end of Bijagua.

Around Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

Rio Celeste Lodge (8365-3415; www.riocelestelodge.com; camping US$2, r per person US$20) This simple set of rustic cabinas is the cheapest accommodations in the area, and is a good option if your day trip suddenly turns into an overnight stay. Rooms have fan and warm shower, and the lodge is conveniently located on the hill near the trailhead. Staff can also arrange horseback riding and guided hikes.

Posada La Amistad (8356-0285; posadalaamistad@hotmail.com; camping per person US$7; r incl breakfast/all meals per person US$15/40; ) This very basic but lovely all-wood lodge 1km past the park entrance has four cabins with rustic beds and mosquito netting and tin roofs. The Tico owners are part of China Verde, a tourism association of six local families who own several private reserves, including an area of the Río Celeste where swimming is permitted.

Cabinas Piuri (2479-8462, 8384-9630; s/d incl breakfast US$15/30; ) Located on the banks of the Río Celeste, this is the nicest and newest hotel near the national park. There are three huge cabins each with a king and queen bed, living room, fridge, tiled floors, hot-water bathroom and shared terrace with chairs rescued from an old movie theatre. A path leads 100m down to the riverbank, where you can swim or lunch at the picnic area. This is a great choice for families. It’s about 1km west of the park entrance.

Tenorio’s Door (8306-6878; www.tenoriodoor.es.tl; s/d US$20/40, incl meals US$40/80; ) At the closest hotel to the national park (500m), everything from the walls to the bath towels is Río Celeste blue. Run by the amiable Tica Marielos, it’s basic but clean, with hammocks, an onsite restaurant and laundry service.

La Carolina Lodge (8380-1656; www.lacarolinalodge.com; s/d incl 3 meals & horseback rides from US$75/130; ) This isolated lodge run by a gracious American named Bill is on a working cattle ranch on the slopes of the volcano, and is highly recommended for anyone looking for a beautiful escape from the rigors of modern life. The remote location means there’s limited electricity – but candlelight only adds to the ambience. Amazing meals (organic beans, rice, fruits, cheeses, chicken and pork from the farm), cooked over an outdoor wood-burning stove, are a treat, as is soaking in the wood-fired hot tub. Rooms with hot shower are basic, but you’ll be spending most of your time in the nearby hot springs, swimming holes or on the riverside (where you can lounge, swim, fish or go bird-watching). The lodge is about 1.3km west of San Miguel.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

There are no direct buses to the national park. Buses between San Jose and Upala stop in Bijagua (₡3500, four daily). Buses also run between Upala and Canas via Bijagua (₡750, three daily). Most lodges can