Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [180]
By car, the turnoff for Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio is 5km north of Bijagua; turn right just past Bar El Mirador, continue 4.4km on the good gravel road to the village of San Miguel, turn right at the intersection and continue 6km to the park entrance. A 4WD is recommended.
Turning left at the San Miguel intersection would bring you to La Carolina Lodge (1.3km). The rough dirt road (4WD required) continues another 13km until it meets up with Hwy 4, the main Upala–Fortuna thoroughfare.
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VOLCÁN MIRAVALLES AREA
Volcán Miravalles (2028m) is the highest volcano in the Cordillera de Guanacaste, and although the main crater is dormant, the geothermal activity beneath the ground has led to the rapid development of the area as a hot-springs destination. As more travelers land in Liberia, they’re starting to discover this nearby refuge from the ubiquitous cold shower.
Volcán Miravalles isn’t a national park or refuge, but the volcano itself is afforded a modicum of protection by being within the Zona Protectora Miravalles. You can also take guided tours of the government-run Proyecto Geotérmico Miravalles, north of Fortuna, an ambitious project inaugurated in 1994 that uses geothermal energy to produce electricity, primarily for export to Nicaragua and Panama, but also producing about 18% of Costa Rica’s electricity. A few bright steel tubes from the plant snake along the flanks of the volcano, adding an eerie touch to the remote landscape. But the geothermal energy most people come here to soak up comes in liquid form. All the listed hot springs are north of the tiny village of Fortuna de Bagaces (not to be confused with La Fortuna de Arenal).
HERE’S MUD IN YOUR EYE
Actually…you’ll want to keep thermal mud out of your eyes. To get the most out of your mud bath, local hot-springs devotees suggest this general regimen.
If there’s a sauna, start with a nice steam for about 15 minutes to open your pores; otherwise, have a few minutes’ soak in a warm pool. Then get dirty – squish your hands into the basin of gray volcanic mud (never directly from the pools themselves, which could ruin the experience by burning the flesh off your hands) and apply liberally, avoiding the eye area. Find a spot to relax and let the mud dry on your skin for 10 to 15 minutes before rinsing off under a hot shower and/or having a good soak in the hot pools (the recommended duration depends on the location of the hot springs). Ending with a brave dip in a cold pool, if there is one, not only recharges you in a big way but also sends a healthy jolt of blood to your internal organs.
Before getting into hot water – the thermal kind, at least – remove any silver jewelry to prevent it from oxidizing and turning black.
Thermo Manía (2673-0233; www.thermomania.net; adult/child US$10/8; 8am-10pm; ) is the biggest complex in the area, with seven thermal pools that are connected by all manner of waterslides, heated rivers, waterfalls and faux-stone bridges. There’s also a full spa, playground, museum, zoo, soccer field and picnic tables; the busy restaurant-bar (mains US$4 to US$10) is housed in a 170-year-old colonial cabin furnished with museum-worthy period pieces. Guests who stay in the 26 log-cabin rooms (per person adult/child US$22/11) have free access to the pools during their stay, with TV and cold-water bathroom (neatly counterbalancing the lack of cold-water pools).
El Guayacán (2673-0349; www.termaleselguayacan.com; adult/child US$5/3), whose hissing vents and mud pots (absolutely stay on the trail!) are on the family finca, lies just behind Thermo Manía. With its five thermal pools and one cold pool in front of its simple, cold-water cabinas (adult/child US$22/11), this unpretentious place has a mellow, family vibe to it. There’s an onsite restaurant (mains ₡1000 to ₡3000).
Nearby Yökö Hot Springs (2673-0410; www.yokotermales.com; adult/child US$8/6; 7am-11pm; ) has four hot springs with a small waterslide and waterfall, set in an