Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [181]
For some local flavor, Termales Miravalles (8357-8820, 8305-4072; adult/child US$4/3) has two pools, a waterslide and lies along a thermal stream. The owners have set up a small restaurant and offer camping (US$6 per person) on the property. They’re usually open on weekends year-round, and daily during high season. The access road is directly across from Yökö Hot Springs.
On the southern slopes of Miravalles, Las Hornillas (8839-9769; www.lashornillas.com; admission US$20; 9am-5pm) is the center of volcanic activity in the area. The entrance fee includes an informative tour around the small crater (again, stay on the trail, kids) and allows you to soak in the thermal pools. This wonderfully isolated, family-run spot also offers hiking and tractor tours (US$40) via hanging bridges to a waterfall, including lunch and access to the mud and pools.
Just north of Fortuna de Bagaces is the lovely new Ailanto Bed & Breakfast (8353-7386; www.ailantocostarica.com; d/ste incl breakfast US$75/125; ). Judith and David have created this little bit of paradise at the foothill of Miravalles on 33 acres of primary and secondary forest. The Tuscan-style villa has four rooms with comfy furnishings; some have shared bathroom. Property amenities include a shared kitchen, TV lounge, terrace with views, a thermal pool and hiking trails. The hosts can also help book area tours. It’s located about 1.5km north of Fortuna de Bagaces; at the Y intersection, go right toward Las Homillas; Ailanto is on the right behind the big rock wall.
Near the base of the volcano is Centro de Aventuras (2673-0469; www.volcanoadventuretour.com; camping US$5, d US$30; ), which has a number of offerings including a canopy tour (with/without lunch US$28/20) and horseback riding (US$25 to US$50). The clean, brightly painted cabinas have private hot-water bathroom and are centered on a pool that’s fed by mountain springwater. This is a good place to inquire about local guides who can take you on independent tours, eg a two-day hike to the summit of Miravalles.
Volcán Miravalles is 27km northeast of Bagaces and can be approached by a paved road that leads north of Bagaces through the communities of Salitral and Torno, where the road splits. From the left-hand fork, you’ll reach Guayabo, with a few sodas and basic cabinas; to the right, you’ll find Fortuna de Bagaces (so named as not to confuse it with La Fortuna), with easier access to the hot springs. Both towns are small population centers, and are not of much interest to travelers. The roads reconnect north of the two towns and toward Upala, and also make a great scenic loop.
Buses (₡500, one hour) from Liberia to Guayabo or Aguas Claras (via Fortuna) depart at 6am, 9am, 11am and 2pm and pass by all the hot-spring entrances. Return buses to Liberia (via Guayabo) pass by the hot springs at about 2:30pm, 3:30pm and 4:30pm.
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BAGACES
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This small town is about 22km northwest of Cañas on the Interamericana, and is the headquarters of the Area de Conservación Tempisque (ACT; 2200-0125; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri), which, in conjunction with Minae, administers Parque Nacional Palo Verde, Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal, and several smaller and lesser-known protected areas. The office is on the Interamericana opposite the signed main entry road into Parque Nacional Palo Verde. The office is mainly an administrative one, though sometimes rangers are available. Any buses between Cañas and Liberia can drop you off in Bagaces. If you’re heading to Miravalles, there are hourly local buses to both Fortuna and Guayabo.
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Llanos de Cortés Waterfall
If you have time to visit only one waterfall in Costa Rica, make it Llanos de Cortés. This beautiful hidden waterfall is located