Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [201]
WINDSURFING & KITESURFING
The strongest and steadiest winds blow from November through March, but the wind is pretty consistent here year-round. The shape of the hills surrounding the bay funnels the winds into a predictable pattern, and the sandy, protected beaches make this a safe place for beginners and experienced windsurfers and kiteboarders alike. It’s important to remember that there are inherent dangers to kiteboarding (namely the risk of losing a limb – yikes!), so it’s best to seek professional instruction if you’re not an experienced kiteboarder. Responsible instructors recommend at least two days of lessons before you can safely go out on your own. Windsurfing rentals and lessons can be found at Ecoplaya Beach Resort (2676-1010; www.ecoplaya.com).
If windsurfing is too tame for you, then enroll at Kitesurf School 2000 (8826-5221; www.bluedreamhotel), a sporty combination of wind and waves (which school instructors insist is much easier to learn than regular surfing) where you are attached to a large kite, then pulled across the bay by the breeze, allowing more advanced students to do flips and other aerial acrobatics above the froth and swells – really cool. If you want to give this a try, make reservations a couple of days in advance for two days of lessons (US$240) or just equipment rental (basic gear per day US$65). Italian and English spoken.
Another reputable kitesurfing school is Cometa Copal (2676-1192; www.islandsurf-sail.com; lguardbl@gmail.com), a seasonal shop run by American Bob Selfridge, who not only offers kitesurfing lessons with PASA (Professional Air Sports Association) certified instructors, but is himself an instructor, lifeguard and emergency medical technician. It’s open November to June. Lessons are US$40 per hour, or US$45 for a private lesson.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sleeping & Eating
Most hotels in Bahía Salinas offer transfers from San José or Liberia airports.
Blue Dream Hotel (2676-1042, 8826-5221; www.bluedreamhotel.com; dm US$15, s/d US$33/42; ) Home base of Kitesurf School 2000, this friendly little hotel looks out over Playa Papaturro from its terraced hillside, with simple, comfortable tiled rooms at the top of the hill. Along with the hammock-strung garden, there’s a yoga terrace, Mediterraneo restaurant (open for breakfast, lunch and dinner) serving local and Mediterranean food, and spa services to boot, all run by Italian kiteboarding instructor Nicola and his Tica wife Katya.
Cometa Copal (2676-1192; www.islandsurf-sail.com; lguardbl@gmail.com; dm US$15, r US$25, cabinas US$40-55; ) A seasonal operation that contracts with different rooms and cabinas every year – the ones we saw were clean colorful little cabinas at the top of a hill with gorgeous views of the bay. In addition to organizing kitesurfing lessons and rentals, the friendly American couple running Cometa Copal also rents gear and beachfront villas for the short or long term. Bob and Kirsten offer sweet extras like shiatsu massage, overnight kite repairs and home-baked goodies.
Bolaños Bay Resort (2676-1163; www.hotelbolanosbay.com; s/d incl breakfast US$71/83, ste US$109, all-inclusive per person US$54; ) Completely remodeled in 2009, this remote, low-key resort is a great place to get away from it all. Spectacularly set on a high bluff above deserted Playa La Coyotero, the property features a huge thatched-covered lobby and restaurant, a pool with swim-up bar, a disco and tropical gardens. The 72 superclean rooms are scattered around the property, all featuring TV, air-con and private hot water bathroom with bidet; some have kitchenette. All-inclusive packages include lodging, three meals a day and two alcoholic drinks per meal. Four rooms are wheelchair-accessible. Onsite activities include fishing, snorkeling and a seasonal