Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [202]
Ecoplaya Beach Resort (2676-1010; www.ecoplaya.com; r & villas US$98-290; ) About 16km from La Cruz, Ecoplaya’s luxury rooms and bungalows range from elegant studios, complete with kitchenette and sustainable-teak furniture, to full luxury suites containing minibar, sitting room and air-con in every room. All rooms have satellite TV and private terrace or balcony. Opt for the full American plan (adult/child additional US$84/42, two-night minimum), and all meals are included, as are all drinks from 10am to 10pm (yes, you read that right). The hotel’s stretch of white-sand beach is picture-perfect, although the pool with swim-up bar is also perfectly self-indulgent. The hotel has plenty of activities on offer as well.
HEADING NORTH OF THE BORDER
Peñas Blancas is a busy border crossing, open 6am to 8pm daily. You won’t be charged to exit or enter Costa Rica, but leaving Nicaragua costs US$2. The fee to enter Nicaragua is US$7. Driving a car across the border is another $22, but most car-rental companies in Costa Rica won’t allow you to cross borders; check before you sign your contract. Alternatively, leave your car in the ‘no man’s land’ parking area between borders for $5 per day. Banks on either side will change local colones and córdobas for dollars but, inconveniently, not for each other. Independent moneychangers will happily make the exchange for you – at whatever rates they feel like setting.
The border posts are about 1km apart; if you’re in the mood you can hire a golf cart (US$2) to make the run. Hordes of totally useless touts will offer to ‘guide’ you through the simple crossing – let them carry your luggage if you like, but agree on a fee beforehand. You’ll also be charged US$1 to enter the state of Rivas. Should you have any hard currency left at this point, there’s a fairly fabulous duty-free shop, with fancy makeup and lots of liquor, waiting for you in Sapoá, the Nicaraguan equivalent of Peñas Blancas.
Relax with your purchases on the 37km bus ride (US$1, 45 minutes), departing every 30 minutes, to Rivas. The city is a quiet transport hub, though its well-preserved 17th-century center is worth exploring (think a more run-down version of Granada without all the crowds).
If you’re good at bargaining (and you will have to bargain hard), there are a number of taxis waiting on the Nicaraguan side of the border to whisk you to Rivas ($15).
San Juan del Sur
After standing in line in the hot sun and negotiating the chaos of crossing the border, all you might feel up for is collapsing on a beach with a shot of Flor de Caña in hand – if your answer to that is ‘sí, por favor,’ then make tracks to San Juan del Sur. This Nicaraguan fishing village has geared itself to tourism, so you can pick up a used novel, go surfing, diving or deep-sea fishing, and then party in the evening with other travelers and local expats. Buses and water taxis also make trips to some of the stunning beaches north and south of San Juan.
There are several places to stay along the market street where the buses pull in. The beachfront is lined with breezy cafes, and you’ll find lots of cheap eateries at San Juan’s market.
Casa Oro (505-568-2415; www.casaeloro.com; dm US$7.50-8.50, r with/without bathroom US$19/17; ) This well-run hostel is deservedly popular and always heavily booked. Quieter upstairs rooms have more space and private bathroom.
Piedras y Olas (505-568-2243; www.piedrasyolas.com; r US$207-305; ) Located on a hilltop with stunning ocean views, this highly recommended luxury beach resort has infinity pools, restaurant, bar and ritzy rooms with kitchens. Note that this property requires lots of stair-climbing.
El Timón (505-568-2243; dishes US$5-10) This excellent beach restaurant is the place to go for a more upmarket seafood dinner, with professional service and delicious seafood; the pulpo