Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [203]
Bambu Beach Club (505-568-2101; www.thebambubeachclub.com; mains ₡2500-5500; 11am-1am; ) European-run with Nico charm, this upscale restaurant is located on a quiet stretch of beach and has an international menu including beef, fish, chicken and more. Movie nights are held on Monday and Thursday evenings.
Buses to and from Rivas (US$0.70, 45 minutes), with connections to the border, depart every 30 minutes or so from 3:30am to 7pm. Taxis from Sapoá to San Juan del Sur cost about US$11.Isla de Ometepe
One of Nicaragua’s highlights, Isla de Ometepe is like something from a fantasy landscape. The island’s twin volcanoes – Volcán Concepción (1610m above the lake) and Volcán Maderas (1394m) – rise dramatically from Lago de Nicaragua and are connected by an isthmus formed by lava flow.
Parts of Ometepe are still covered in primary forest, which shelters abundant wildlife, including howler monkey and green parrot. The island is also famous for its ancient Chorotega stone statues and petroglyphs.
It’s possible to hike both volcanoes, though these are serious, eight- to 12-hour treks that are best attempted with a local guide. There are also great beaches for sunning and swimming all around the island. The most popular beach, Playa Santo Domingo, is on the isthmus and has plenty of places to stay and eat. Many local accommodations have horses, bikes or kayaks to hire at reasonable rates.
The island’s two major settlements, Altagracia and Moyogalpa, both offer accommodations and restaurants, but to experience the true charms of Ometepe, travel further out: Charco Verde, Playa Santo Domingo, Balgüe and Mérida all offer lovely settings amid the island’s rich biodiversity.
The fastest way of reaching Ometepe is via San Jorge near Rivas, from where boats make the 15km crossing to Moyogalpa on Ometepe. There are two types of boat: significantly more comfortable car/passenger ferries (San Jorge–Moyagalpa 1st/2nd class US$3.50/2.50, departures 7:45am, noon, 2:30pm, 4:30pm and 5:30pm) and fairly basic lanchas (small motorboats; US$1.60, departures at 9am, 9:30am, 10:30am, 11:30am, 1:30pm and 3:30pm). Taxis from Sapoá to the San Jorge ferry will cost about US$15 if you bargain hard.
Granada
The lovely colonial city of Granada is a sight for sore eyes after the brutally bland architecture of Costa Rica. The carved colonial portals, elegant churches and fine plaza, as well as its location on Lago de Nicaragua, have enchanted visitors for centuries since the city was founded in 1524. And not only is it a beautiful city to enjoy for a few days, it also makes a convenient launching point for Nicaragua’s other attractions. Stop by the Intur office (505-552-6858; granada@intur.gob.ni; Calle Arsenal; 8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12:30pm Sat & Sun), across from the San Francisco church, to pick up a good map of the city’s historic buildings.
A few blocks northeast of Parque Central is the striking light-blue facade of the Convento y Iglesia de San Francisco (Calle Cervantes). It fronts a complex that was initiated in 1585, burned to the ground by William Walker in 1856, and rebuilt in 1867–68. It houses the city’s must-see museum (admission US$2; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun). Admission includes a bilingual guided tour.
Some recommended places to stay:
Hostal Esfinge (505-552-4826; Calle Atravesada; dm US$4, d with/without bathroom US$12/7, d with bathroom & air-con US$20; ) A gracious, old-style ambience pervades this gorgeous historic building. Rooms surround a large courtyard, and guests have access to a communal kitchen.
Patio del Malinche (505-552-2235; www.patiodelmalinche.com; Calle El Caimito; s/d incl breakfast US$66/83; ) This lovingly restored colonial home is one of Granada’s most appealing places to stay. The personal attention and delicious, massive breakfasts make it feel more like a guesthouse than a hotel.
Hotel Colonial (505-552-7581; www.hotelcolonialgrande.com; d with/without breakfast US$75/65; ) This relatively new, romantic