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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [209]

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– judging by the many Confederate flags around town – Southern US expats all year round. Though slick development continues its creep, Coco retains a languid, slightly trashy charm.

Although most travelers either pass through quickly or skip Coco in favor of beaches further south, the town is a growing scuba diving center and a preferred jumping-off point for surfers heading to the celebrated Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point (Click here).


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Information

The police station and a small post office branch are on the southeast side of the plaza by the beach. Banco Nacional, south of the center on the main road into town, exchanges US dollars and traveler’s checks. The few people arriving at Playa del Coco by boat will find the migración (immigration) office across from Deep Blue Diving Adventures.

BAC Bank (Pacífico Plaza) Has a 24hr ATM.

BCR Bank (9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Changes US dollars. The ATM is operational from 5am to 10pm.

Café Internet Pillis (per hr ₡800; 7am-9pm) Internet access and international phone calls. On the 2nd floor of a souvenir shop.

Lava Max (2670-1860; per kg ₡1000; 8am-5pm) Get your laundry washed, dried and folded here.

Main post office (8am-noon & 1-5:30pm) Located near the entrance of town next to Flor de Itabo hotel.


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Activities

DIVING & SNORKELING

The following agencies are thoroughly recommended.

Deep Blue Diving Adventures (2670-1004; www.deepblue-diving.com) Inside the Coco Bay Hotel & Casino, this outfitter runs two-tank boat dives for US$80, including equipment rental and snacks. It also rents bicycles for US$10 per day.

Rich Coast Diving (2670-0176, in USA & Canada 800-434-8464; www.richcoastdiving.com) On the main street, this Dutch-owned dive shop has a trimaran for overnight diving trips. A two-tank dive costs US$80, plus US$20 for equipment rental.

Summer Salt (2670-0308; www.summer-salt.com) This friendly little Swiss-run dive shop has professional, bilingual staff who are as interested in showing you a good time as they are in your safety. Two-tank dive trips are US$100 with snacks included.

SWIMMING

Travelers are generally dissatisfied with the quality of the beach at Playa del Coco, but it’s just a 4km drive or walk along the paved road to Playa Ocotal, which is clean, quiet and perfect for both swimming and snorkeling.

SURFING

There’s no surf in Playa del Coco, but the town is a jumping-off point for Costa Rica’s most legendary surf destinations: Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point, which are inside Parque Nacional Santa Rosa. The best way to reach them is by boat, and boat operators must be licensed by Minae (Ministerio del Ambiente y Energía; Ministry of Environment and Energy) to enter the park. Several surf shops in Coco and Tamarindo (Click here) run trips to Santa Rosa.

OTHER ACTIVITIES

Sportfishing, sailing, horseback riding and sea kayaking are other popular activities. Many places will rent sea kayaks, which are perfect for exploring the rocky headlands to the north and south of the beach as well as the nearby beaches. You will find no shortage of tour companies around town that can book these and many other activities.

Blue Marlin (2670-0707; bluemarl@racsa.co.cr) Offers sportfishing trips, regional land tours and surf trips to Witch’s Rock.

Coco Xtreme (8886-0712/67; 9am-sunset) This recommended tour operator offers Jet Ski rentals, surfing and fishing trips, and ‘party cruises’ like the all-you-can-drink, sunset booze cruise aboard an 11m-long yacht (US$65 per person).

Papagayo Marine Supply (2670-0774; 8am-5pm) has bounteous information and supplies for anglers. It also rents snorkeling gear (US$10 per day) and has a small soda (informal lunch counter) with Tico cuisine.

Papagayo Golf & Country Club (2697-0169; 9/18 holes US$55/95, putting green US$6; 6:30am-5pm Tue-Sun) An 18-hole course located 10km southeast of Playa del Coco.


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Festivals & Events

In late January the town hosts a Fiesta Cívica, with bullfights, rodeos, dancing and plenty of drinking.

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