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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [210]

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But the biggest festival in Coco is the Fiesta de la Virgen del Mar, celebrated in mid-July with a vivid religious-themed boat procession in the harbor and a horse pageant.


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Sleeping

HOSTELS

El Oasis Backpackers Hostel (2670-0511; dm per person US$15; ) Playa del Coco’s first true hostel is a friendly lodge with segregated men’s and women’s dorms, communal kitchen and lounge area with TV, DVD, laundry service, bike rentals and a lovely garden with hammocks. It’s located behind Papagayo Steak House.

BUDGET

The following lodgings have cold-water showers and fans unless otherwise noted, and primarily cater to Tico weekenders. It’s popular for Ticos to camp near the beach, though you need to be careful as things can get dodgy when the clubs let out.

Cabinas Don Carlos (8887-3192; r per person with/without bathroom US$15/10; ) The cheapest place in town has simple, clean and tiny rooms, most with shared bathroom. Pricier rooms have private bathroom, TV and kitchenette. Look for the sign that says ‘Rooms for Rent: Backpackers US$8,’ advertising the low-season rate.

Cabinas Coco Azul (2670-0431, 8879-3832; cabinascocoazul_cr@yahoo.com; s/d US$15/20; ) This two-story, white and brick building is the best of several budget cabinas located in a gated complex behind the church. Rooms are sparkling clean and comfy.

Cabinas Marimar (2670-1212; r per person with/without fridge US$27/18; ) Across the road from the beach are these 16 simple rooms in a two-story brown building with shared balconies. It’s no-frills but friendly, and hey, it’s beachfront, baby.

Hotel Savannah (2670-0367; r with/without air-con US$40/30; ) Owned by the same folks behind Hotel Coco Palms, Savannah is a good deal for budget travelers. It’s on a quiet side road, with a swimming pool, communal kitchen, barbecue grills and pleasant garden. Rooms, however, are bare-bones; most have bunk beds and cold-water bathroom.

Ruby’s Lodging (8389-6746, 8932-9002; s/d US$30/40; ) Californian-run with Tico charm, this brand-new hotel has eight clean and comfy rooms, all with hot-water bathroom, air-con and TV. Deals or long-term stays are available. There’s no sign outside; look for the white building behind the red gate.

Cabinas Donde Claudio y Gloria (2670-1514; d/tr/q US$35/45/45; ) Located smack-dab on the beach, these clean cabinas are a fantastic deal. All rooms have air-con, TV, two double beds, bathroom, and patio with ocean views. The adjoining restaurant (Click here) is one of the most established eateries in town.

MIDRANGE

Pato Loco Inn (2670-0145; www.costa-rica-beach-hotel-patoloco.com; d US$40-60; ) This small inn is one of Coco’s most pleasant places to stay, if you don’t mind forgetting you’re in Costa Rica. It’s run by an American whose daughter, Mary, has covered the walls with colorful murals. Each room has a design motif and a range of amenities depending on your budget, and the bar in front is a welcoming spot to hang out with a beer and shoot the breeze with the other (most likely American) guests. The backyard surrounds a pool, and the small restaurant (dishes ₡2000 to ₡4000, open for breakfast and lunch) specializes in international comfort food.

Hotel Coco Palms (2670-0367; www.hotelcocopalms.com; r US$49-195; ) This low-key resort hotel has a variety of rooms (including some apartments with kitchens) with free wi-fi. The hallways are light and airy with high ceilings, but some of the cheaper interior rooms are a little dark. There’s a pleasant outdoor deck and pool, and the small sushi bar (sushi ₡2600 to ₡5200) and bigger international restaurant keep guests well fed. The great market here sells wine and imported goods in addition to the usual groceries.

Laura’s House B&B (2670-0751; www.laurashousecr.net; s/d incl breakfast US$50/60; ) The eight spotless rooms at this homey B&B overlook a small pool and have wi-fi access and cable TV. The place has a friendly, family vibe and it is a short walk to the center of town.

Villa del Sol B&B (2670-0085, in USA 866-815-8902, in Canada 866-793-9523; www.villadelsol.com;

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