Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [211]
Flor de Itabo (2670-0438; www.flordeitabo.com; bungalows US$60, s/d US$70/85, apt US$70-105; ) If you’re into sportfishing, this is your spot, as the owners have a reputation for catching big game and can organize expeditions throughout Nicoya and the Pacific coast. All rooms have air-con, satellite TV, phone and fridge, while deluxe rooms also have whirlpool tubs. Apartments, with full kitchens, sleep four or six. There’s a restaurant serving Italian and international food, a casino and a bar.
Hotel La Puerta del Sol (2670-0195; lapuertadelsolcostarica@hotmail.com; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast US$70/90/120/120; ) A five-minute walk from town, this unpretentiously luxurious Mediterranean-inspired hotel has two large suites and eight huge pastel-color rooms, each with its own private terrace. The well-manicured grounds have a pool and an open-air, trellis-shaded gym, and the excellent Sol y Luna Restaurant & Bar (Click here) is one of the best eats in town. Dive packages are available through Deep Blue Diving Adventures.
Toro Blanco (2670-1707; www.toroblancoresort.com; s/d US$90/140; ) The newest hotel in town, this bright-yellow, colonial-style building surrounds a courtyard with a lovely swimming pool with swim-up bar. Apartments are rather plain, but all have a full kitchen, flat-screen TV and private balcony overlooking the pool. This is a good choice for families and self-catering groups.
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In addition to the hotels listed here, see also the listings under Playa Ocotal, 4km to the south, and Playa Hermosa, 5.5km to the north.
Casa Vista Azul (2670-0678; www.hotelvistaazul.com; r incl breakfast US$101, apt US$124; ) This new hotel has seven rooms and two apartments, all of which have air-con and bathroom and are flooded with light and wide-open ocean views. There’s also a breezy rooftop dining area, and the owner can help arrange tours. To get here, head west off the main road, just south of Flor de Itabo, and follow the signs.
Coco Beach Hotel & Casino (2670-0494; www.cocobeachhotelandcasino.com; s/d/tr/q US$108/116/125/130; ) It’s hard to miss this two-story, salmon-pink hotel, one of the largest buildings in town. Recently remodeled, spacious rooms are generic but comfortable with cable TV and air-con. Amenities include a pool, restaurant, bar and the town’s largest casino.
Rancho Armadillo (2670-0108; www.ranchoarmadillo.com; d incl breakfast US$170, ste US$170-232; ) Near the entrance to town, this private estate is on a hillside about 600m off the main road (all paved). The view from the common areas is the best in Playa del Coco, and it’s a perfect retreat from the heavily touristed coastline. The seven rooms are light, spacious and nicely decorated with individually crafted furniture. Suites sleep four; some have two bathrooms and two entrances. There’s a pool, outdoor gym and plenty of decorative armadillo sculptures, though the location itself makes for a relaxing, meditative stay. The US owners arrange fishing, sailing, diving and surfing trips. Gourmands will enjoy comparing recipes with chef and owner Rick Vogel and using the fully equipped professional kitchen.
Café de Playa (2670-1471/1621; www.cafedeplaya.com; d incl breakfast US$200; ) Several elegant rooms at this beach club, adorned with gallery-worthy contemporary art, look on to the pool area and provide easy access to the beach, open-air sushi bar and beachfront restaurant. It’s about 15 minutes’ walk into the town center, but you may not feel the need to leave.
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Eating
El Chinamo Caribeño (mains ₡1000-3500; 7:30am-10pm) East-coast Costa Rican cuisine comes to the Coco at this Caribbean-owned and operated soda featuring supercheap and tasty Caribbean-style