Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [213]
If you’re looking for a more stylish venue, head to Zouk Santana (2670-0191; www.zouksantana.com; 5pm-2am), where there’s an open seating area, dance floor and streetside bar. The hot new spot is Zi Lounge (2670-1978; 4pm-2:30am), an outdoor lounge where you can relax on big sofas under large white tents while DJs spin an eclectic mix of electronica, salsa and hip-hop.
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Getting There & Away
All buses arrive and depart from the main stop on the plaza, across from the police station.
Filadelfia, for connection to Santa Cruz ₡450; 45 minutes; departs 11:30am and 4:30pm.
Liberia ₡700; one hour; departs eight times from 5:30am to 6pm.
San José (Pulmitan) ₡3200; five hours; departs 4am, 8am and 2pm.
A taxi from Liberia to Playa del Coco costs ₡17,000. Taxis between Playa del Coco and Playas Hermosa or Ocotal will cost about ₡6000.
Note that there’s no gas station in town; the nearest one is in Sardinal, about 7.5km inland from Playa del Coco.
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PLAYA HERMOSA
If you’re looking for the legendary surf beach, Click here. For those of you still with us, Playa Hermosa is a gently curving and tranquil gray-sand beach stretching for about 2km. Although it’s only 5.5km (by road) north of Playa del Coco, and development is springing up rapidly along this entire coastline, Hermosa feels less dissipated and more dignified than Coco. The hillsides may be up for sale, but they’re still pretty green and the locals are not so jaded.
If you are keen to get in the water, Bill Beard’s Diving Safaris (2453-5044, in USA & Canada 877-853-0538; www.billbeardcostarica.com) at the Villas Sol Hotel has been scuba diving and snorkeling since 1970. Aqua Sport (2672-0050) has boats for fishing, water tours and snorkeling.
From the main road, there is a southern and northern access road leading to the beach.
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Sleeping
Do it the Tico way and camp for free under a few shady spots near the main beach, but don’t expect any facilities.
The second (or northern) entrance to the beach is lined with a variety of hotels and inns, should none of the following options pan out.
Iguana Inn (2672-0065; s/d US$20/30; ) Set 100m back from the beach, this rambling bilevel terra-cotta inn has 10 simple, slightly beat-up rooms with bathroom, though the price is definitely right. The Tico owners are also super laid-back, which makes for a relaxing, worry-free stay.
Cabinas La Casona (2672-0025; gaviotalouise@hotmail.com; s/d US$30/45; ) The seven cutesy cabinas here, with whitewashed rooms, small kitchenette, TV and hot-water bathroom, are ideal for self-caterers, and they’re just steps from the beach.
Playa Hermosa B&B (2672-0063; s/d incl breakfast US$45/70; ) Centered on a gigantic tree right on the beach, this B&B has a certain decaying appeal to it; though it seemed a bit neglected when we stopped by, it does have character and a quiet, beachfront location. You’ll find it at the end of the dirt road on the left of the northern access road as you head toward the beach.
Hotel El Velero (2672-0036/1017; www.costaricahotel.net; d US$90; ) Just steps from the beach, this resort hotel has 22 spacious and fully equipped rooms decorated with woodwork and colorful bedspreads. The complex has a pool, patio lounge and US-style restaurant and bar, though the real draw is the owner’s 11.5m sailboat. Guests are invited on a number of cruises through the crystal-blue waters of the Bahía de Culebra, including daily sunset cruises (US$60 per person, minimum four people).
DIVERS DO IT DEEPER
The northern area of the peninsula is one of the best and most easily accessible sites in the country for diving. As beach diving in this area isn’t the greatest, dives are made either around volcanic rock pinnacles near the coast, or from a boat further off at Isla Santa