Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [214]
Diving here is not like diving the Caribbean – do not expect to see colorful hard coral on the scale of Belize. Conditions can be mediocre from a visibility standpoint (9m to 15m visibility, and sometimes up to 20m), but the sites make up for it in other ways: namely, their abundant marine life. The richness, variety and sheer number of marine animals is astonishing. This is the place to see large groupings of pelagics, such as manta rays, spotted eagle rays, sharks, whales, dolphins and turtles, as well as moray eels, starfish, crustaceans and huge schools of native tropical fish. Most of the dive sites are less than 25m deep, allowing three dives a day. Keep in mind, however, that since February 2006 it is now illegal to swim in close proximity to dolphins and whales.
The Papagayo winds blow from early December to late March and make the water choppy and cooler, cutting down on visibility, especially for the four days around the full moon. June and July are usually the best months for visibility.
Isla Santa Catalina and Isla Murciélago both have a rich variety of marine life living and cruising around these rocky outcrops. Manta rays have been reported from December to late April, and at other times you can expect to spot eagle rays, eels, Cortez angelfish, hogfish, parrot fish, starfish, clown shrimp and other bottom dwellers. The far point of Murciélago is known for its regular sightings of groups of bull sharks, which can be a terrifying sight if you’re not an experienced diver. Divers also head to Narizones, which is a good deep dive (about 27m), while Punta Gorda is an easy descent for inexperienced divers.
The good thing about scuba diving here is that the sheer cost of starting and maintaining a dive center discourages fly-by-night operators from setting up shop. As a general rule, though, it’s good to feel out a dive shop before paying for a trip – talk to the divemaster, inspect the equipment and make sure you’re comfortable with everything before heading out (you should never feel pressured into diving!).
If you haven’t been scuba diving before, consider taking a ‘Discovery Course,’ which costs about US$125 and will teach you all the basics. If you’re interested in getting your Open Water Diver certification, which allows you to dive anywhere in the world, a three- to four-day course is about US$400. Compared to what these courses can cost in either North America or Europe, this price is a bargain.
Hotel Playa Hermosa (2672-0046; www.hotelplayahermosa.com; r US$198-283; ) Hermosa (pretty) would be the simplest way to describe this lovely hotel after the renovation a few years ago. On the southern end of the beach via the first entrance road, the luxurious rooms are screened by branches and greenery of the property’s old-growth trees. The well-appointed rooms, with cable TV, comfortable furniture and a simple, tropical aesthetic, ring around a pool and beautifully landscaped garden. There’s wi-fi access in the central area.
Villas Sol Hotel (2672-0001; www.villassol.com; d US$356, villas US$528; ) If an all-inclusive resort deal sounds attractive, this hillside is your place. Standard rooms are equipped with everything you’d want, and the views of the gulf are breathtaking. The villas are definitely pricier, but they have three bedrooms, a kitchen and a private pool option, so gather a few of your friends who have a bit of cash and live it up. There are also tennis courts, a restaurant and a bar, and the owners can arrange all types of activities (Bill Beard’s Diving Safaris is also based here).
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Eating & Drinking
Whether you’re just passing through Playa Hermosa or spending the night, there are some great spots to eat here. Food and other basic supplies are available at Mini Super Cenizaro, on the paved road into town.
Restaurante Pescado Loco (2672-0017; mains ₡2800-7800; 9am-1am) The ‘Crazy Fish’ serves up some of the freshest seafood around, including