Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [215]
Ginger (2672-0041; mains ₡8300-11,200; 5-10pm Tue-Sun) If you’re driving north, look toward the hills on the right and you’ll see this stunner of an open-air restaurant (it was designed by the famous Costa Rican architect Victor Cañas). The chic ambience, which feels more like New York than Costa Rica, is complemented by a gourmet list of Asian- and Mediterranean-inspired tapas.
Monkey Bar (2672-0267; 5pm-midnight) For all your liquid needs visit this huge tree house between the first and second entrances to Playa Hermosa, where you can sip a sundowner to the tune of howlers bleating overhead.
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Getting There & Away
There is a daily bus from San José, but you can always take a bus to Liberia and switch there for more frequent buses to Playa Hermosa. A taxi from Liberia costs about ₡8500, and a taxi from Coco about ₡6000. If you’re driving from Liberia, take the signed turnoff to Playa del Coco. The entire road is paved.
Buses to Liberia and San José depart from the main road on the northern end of the beach and make a stop in Sardinal.
Liberia ₡450; 1¼ hours; departs seven times from 5:30am to 7:30pm.
San José (Empresa Esquivel) ₡3000; six hours; departs 5am.
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PLAYA OCOTAL
This small but attractive gray-sand beach with tidal pools on both ends is 4km southwest of Playa del Coco by paved road. Aside from a few privately owned villas (which are mostly rented as vacation houses), there isn’t an actual town here, though it’s close enough to Coco that you can either drive or take a leisurely stroll here along the road. Although it’s a fairly quiet beach, Ocotal can get mobbed on weekends by Ticos looking to escape the Coco scene.
If you feel like diving, Ocotal Beach Resort (2670-0321; www.ocotalresort.com) offers dive packages, such as an eight-day, seven-night deal including accommodations, breakfast and six days of boat and beach diving (US$1167 per person, based on double occupancy). It also offers fishing charters (it has six boats) and kayak rentals. Complete fishing packages are also available.
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Sleeping & Eating
Los Almendros de Ocotal (2670-1744; www.losalmendrosrentals.com; studios/apt/villas US$82/181/265; ) Perched on the hillside just above Playa Ocotal, these apartments are a great deal for self-caterers or longer-term visitors. They’re quiet, have superb views, and are well maintained and comfortable. Apartments sleep four while villas sleep six, and some units have a private pool and terrace.
Villa Casa Blanca (2670-0518; www.hotelvillacasablanca.com; d/ste incl breakfast US$105/125, additional person US$10; ) Between Playa del Coco and Ocotal, this attractive villa is perched on a pleasant hilltop just a few minutes’ walk from the beach. The rooms are beautifully decorated with either Victorian motifs or more modern accents. Three honeymoon suites are larger and feature a step-up bathtub and ocean views. The pool has a swim-up bar, and there’s wi-fi access.
Ocotal Beach Resort (off Map;2670-0321; www.ocotalresort.com; s/d incl breakfast from US$175/200, bungalows US$175, ste US$378; ) This beachside resort on the bay has a relaxed vibe and it is a great choice for divers and sport-fishers. There are several swimming pools, tennis courts, and a notable Mediterranean-fusion restaurant whose chef was trained at the Cordon Bleu. Suites are a bit cramped, with gigantic beds, but they have ocean views and Jacuzzi tubs, while duplex-style bungalows share small private pools. All rooms include the creature comforts you’d expect.
Father Rooster Bar & Grill (2670-1246; www.fatherrooster.com; mains ₡2800-9000; 11am-11pm) This awesome beachside eatery serves up a good variety of grilled dishes, including fish, snacks and burgers, and you cannot beat the location: sit in the coolness of