Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [216]
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BEACHES SOUTH OF PLAYA OCOTAL
Although they’re next to one another, Playas Pan de Azúcar, Potrero, Flamingo, Brasilito and Conchal have relatively little in common. The beaches range from gray sand to white sand to crushed seashells, while the range of development is also a seemingly random pattern.
Although it’s tempting to take the ‘road’ from Sardinal to Potrero, there’s a reason why locals call this route the ‘Monkey Trail.’ The first 8km of gravel road leading to the small town of Nuevo Colón is fine, but the second half is pretty brutal, and should only be tackled in dry season with a 4WD (and after you’ve talked to a few locals). The Monkey Trail begins 5km west of El Coco; turn right at the Castrol Oil sign and follow the signs for Congo Canopy. At the ‘T’ intersection in Nuevo Colón, turn left, bear left at the fork and continue for 5km until you reach Congo Canopy. From there, it’s a hair-raising 6km drive to Bahía Potrero.
To avoid the rough roads, return to the main peninsular highway from El Coco, then head south through Filadelfia and on to Belén (a distance of 18km), from where a paved road heads 25km west to Huacas (where there’s a gas station). Then take the road leading north until you hit the ocean at the village of Brasilito. Turn right and head north: you’ll pass Playa Flamingo and Bahía Potrero before reaching Playa Pan de Azúcar. If you make a left instead and head south, you will end up at Playa Conchal.
Buses from San José, Liberia or Santa Cruz can also get you to most of the beaches. If you’re into sea kayaking, the proximity of the beaches to one another makes for some great day trips.
About 1km west of Nuevo Colón, you can take the Congo Trail Canopy Tour (2666-4422; US$45) if you’re looking for adventure without broken axles.
The mammoth 701-room, all-inclusive Hotel Riu Guanacaste (in USA 888-666-8816; www.riu.com; d US$360-598; ) is the newest and one of the largest megaresorts in Costa Rica. Opened in 2009, this five-star, oceanfront palace has a huge casino (open from noon to 3am), nine restaurants and bars (open 24/7!), disco, spa, kids’ club, conference center and an open-air theater with live Broadway musical productions. From the Nuevo Colón ‘T’ intersection, continue straight for 4km on the new paved road. It’s hard to miss!
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Playa Pan de Azúcar
Although the buses stop at Potrero, those with their own ride (it’d better be a 4WD in the rainy season) can head 3km north on a rough dirt road to ‘Sugar-Bread Beach,’ which derives its name from the crystalline strip of white sand that’s protected at both ends by rocky headlands. Difficult access and the lack of cheap accommodations create an atmosphere of total seclusion, and the ocean here is calm, clear and perfect for snorkeling.
Although the beach is fronted by the Hotel Sugar Beach, don’t be afraid to walk down to the shore as beaches are public property in Costa Rica.
Luxury at the Hotel Sugar Beach (2654-4242; www.sugar-beach.com; d incl breakfast from US$164; ) is simple and understated, which is the right approach considering how difficult it is to compete with the natural beauty of the beach. The 22 lovely rooms are brightly painted and entered via elaborately hand-carved wooden doors. Deluxe rooms are slightly larger and have stunning ocean views. There are also four two-bedroom apartments, two beach houses (with two or three bedrooms sleeping 10 to 12) and a small restaurant. But the real reason you’re here is to slow down and linger on one of the most isolated beaches in all of Costa Rica.
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Bahía Potrero
This stretch of bay is separated from Playa Flamingo by a rocky headland. Although the overdeveloped eyesore that is Playa Flamingo can be seen across the bay, monkeys can still be heard in the trees here. The hillsides