Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [217]
Several undeveloped beaches are strung along the bay. The black-sand beach is Playa Prieta, the white-sand beach is Playa Penca, and Playa Potrero, the biggest, is somewhere in between. (These names, it should be noted, are used loosely.) The rocky islet 10km west of Playa Pan de Azúcar is Isla Santa Catalina, a popular diving spot (see boxed text). Hotels on the beaches rent water-sports equipment. A recommended surf school is Point Break Surf (8866-4133; www.pointbreaksurf.com; per lesson US$45).
There’s a small community at Potrero, just beyond the northern end of the beach. This is where the bus line ends, and the beaches here don’t get the weekend rush found at Brasilito. Further south in the center of the bay, the village of Surfside is home to a growing number of US and Canadian expats.
In Potrero, the Casa del Sol strip mall has a small gringo-run Welcome Center (2654-5460; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat), where you can pick up free maps and brochures. Nearby on the road toward the Monkey Trail, Banco de Costa Rica has a 24-hour ATM.
SLEEPING
If you’re looking for budget accommodations, consider staying 7km south in Brasilito (Click here).
Cabinas Christina (2654-4006; www.cabinascristina.com; s or d US$56, tr or q US$102; ) The cheapest accommodations in town, these simple cabinas are scattered under a lovely palm-grove garden. All rooms have air-con, TV and a kitchen.
Bahía Esmeralda (2654-4480; www.hotelbahiaesmeralda.com; s/d/q incl breakfast from US$70/81/108, apt/villas US$157/215; ) A short walk from the beach, this Italian-owned resort offers supercomfortable accommodations at a bargain price. Standard rooms are a little on the small side, though the relaxed atmosphere, pool and excellent Italian restaurant (open for breakfast and dinner, meals from ₡1550 to ₡6200) more than make up for it. The apartments sleeping up to four have fold-out futons and a kitchen, while larger villas sleep six.
Hotel Isolina (2654-4333; www.isolinabeach.com; d/tr/q incl breakfast from US$73/75/102, d/tr/q villas incl breakfast US$91/102/124; ) These attractive yellow buildings are set back from the northern end of the beach and completely surrounded by huge bushes of fragrant hibiscus. Rooms have tiled hot showers, cable TV and air-con, while larger villas have two bedrooms and a fully equipped kitchen. There’s wi-fi access outside, and the attached restaurant serves up some Tico-Mediterranean specialties.
Bahía del Sol (2654-4671, 2224-7290; www.potrerobay.com; d/ste incl breakfast from US$186/339; ) With a prime beachfront location at Playa Potrero (by the cute baby-turtle sign admonishing quad drivers to stay off the beach), this luxurious resort gets high marks for laid-back elegance. Large, tiled rooms and suites have all the amenities you would want (suites include a fully equipped kitchen and private terrace) and surround a lovely garden with a spa area. Out front, there’s a pool with a waterfall and swim-up bar, and a lawn leading out to the beach is peppered with palapas (shelter with a thatched, palm-leaf roof and open sides).
Hotel Mediterraneus (2654-5349; www.hotelmediterraneus.com; d incl breakfast US$192; ) Built in traditional Mediterranean colonial architecture, this posh new hotel is the nicest place in town. The 52 spacious rooms all have balconies or patios overlooking a huge free-form pool with a waterfall. You’ll also find an onsite spa and a good but pricey restaurant.
EATING & DRINKING
The Shack (8336-3497; mains ₡1000-4500; 8am-11pm; ) Our favorite new watering hole in town, this thatched-roof bar-restaurant is run by a lovely Nashville couple, Susan and Cham, and their business partner Jude. Come here for breakfast, when homemade bagels and sausages are served. Lunch and dinner fare is mainly Tex-Mex, but there are also special evenings such as Sushi Saturdays, Meatloaf Wednesdays and Margarita Madness Fridays. Plus, free coffee and