Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [218]
Maxwell’s Café & Bar (2654-4319; mains ₡1200-4000; 8am-11pm; ) Sooner or later, every gringo expat and tourist ends up at this popular, open-air restaurant in Surfside. The Californian-American menu features fish tacos, fajitas and burgers. There’s also a popular farmer’s market every Friday from 1pm to 5pm, when Tico and gringo vendors sell fresh bread, pastries, fruits, sausages and other treats.
Arabica (mains ₡2000-4000; 10am-7pm Mon-Wed, 10am-9pm Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) Tucked at the Casa del Sol plaza in Potrero is a lovely Middle Eastern–themed coffee lounge with Levantine cuisine including hummus, tabouleh, kebabs, pita and, of course, strong coffee.
Las Brisas Bar & Grill (2654-4047; mains ₡2500-6000; noon-late) Just off the northwest corner of the soccer field in Potrero, this popular beachfront bar has been a local favorite since 1950. Villagers pack the joint nightly for bocas, beers and brilliant sunsets. The pool table here is probably the most exciting entertainment offering in town. Wednesday is ladies’ night.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Many buses begin their route in Potrero on the southeast corner of the soccer field. See Playa Flamingo (below) for schedules. Ask locally before setting out as not every bus goes all the way into Potrero.
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Playa Flamingo
The crescent strip of white sand known as Playa Flamingo is postcard-worthy, which is probably why it was billed decades ago as Costa Rica’s most sophisticated beach destination. These days the beach has gone completely upscale, though the scene ain’t so pretty. The hills above the bay are lined with private villas and expensive condos. Bars are filled with guys bragging about the size of their yachts, and overly friendly ladies willing to go along for the ride. Package tourists and sportfishers still frequent the old resorts that line the bay, but there are definitely better places to spend your time and money. That said, the white-sand shoreline itself is a blue-flag beach, making it a lovely place to while away a free hour or two.
The original name of the beach was Playa Blanca; it changed its name in the 1950s to coincide with the construction of the area’s first major hotel, the Flamingo Beach Resort. Funnily enough, flamingo season here runs from never to never.
ACTIVITIES
At the entrance to Playa Flamingo, Groupo Brandisi (2654-4946; www.theedgeadventure.com; 7am-6pm) has a range of rentals and tours. A two-tank dive is US$75, and snorkeling gear, bikes and body boards are available for rent. Fishing charters are also available.
Many boat operators offer cruises and snorkeling trips. The Lazy Lizard (2654-5900; www.lazylizardsailing.com; adult/child US$75/55) catamaran offers a four-hour sunset-snorkeling cruise with equipment, snacks and unlimited booze. Playa Flamingo’s marina is indefinitely closed; all boats depart from Bahía Potrero.
SLEEPING & EATING
Budget options are practically nonexistent in Playa Flamingo, though you will find a few local supermarkets. If you want to visit the beach but save a few bucks, consider staying in nearby Brasilito (Click here).
Mariner Inn (2654-4081; marinerinn@hotmail.com; s/d US$34/45; ) Just next to the marina, the Mariner Inn has a sweet terrace bar with beautiful views of the bay where you can have a cocktail before turning in. The small rooms have seen better days, but they are clean and comfortable, with air-con, hot water, cable TV and some with a fridge.
Flamingo Beach Resort (2654-4444; www.resortflamingobeach.com; r US$120-300; ) The Flamingo is the granddaddy of the area’s resorts, with 91 rooms, tennis courts, a pool and a wide restaurant terrace that looks out on the beautiful beach out back. It has a 1950s Vegas look and feel, with no dearth of amenities or gaudy aesthetic.
Marie’s (2654-4136; meals ₡2000-12,000; 6:30am-9:30pm) One of the longest-established eateries in town has a breezy round dining terrace, and such offerings as yogurt, granola and fruit at breakfast, avocados stuffed with shrimp, and spinach-and-ricotta ravioli. The pancakes,