Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [221]
Why is it that the most expensive resorts always seem to have the most ridiculous names? With 285 hectares of property, including an over-the-top free-form pool and a championship golf course, it’s not like Paradisus Playa Conchal Beach & Resort (2654-4123; www.paradisus-playa-conchal.com; d from US$478; ) really needs a fancy name to compensate for any inadequacies. Guests have got it all here, and everything from the marble columns to the gold-trimmed toothbrush holder is a class act. Needless to say, the whole shebang is about as non–Costa Rican as it can get.
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PLAYA GRANDE
From Huacas, the southwesterly road leads to Playa Grande, a beach famous among conservationists and surfers alike. By day, the offshore winds create steep and powerful waves, especially at high tide and in front of Hotel Las Tortugas. By night, an ancient cycle continues to unfurl as leatherback sea turtles bearing clutches of eggs follow the ocean currents back to their birthplace.
Since 1991 Playa Grande has been part of the Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste, which bars beachfront development to ensure that one of the most important leatherback nesting areas in the world is preserved for future generations. However, this is not to say that Playa Grande is pristine. The park’s official boundary ends 50m from the high-tide line, and government agencies have been lax about permitting real-estate development that is technically within the boundaries of the park. In 2007 the Supreme Court of Costa Rica restated a 2005 moratorium on all construction within park boundaries; meanwhile, conservation groups are lobbying to prevent development near the central beach, where turtles can still nest undisturbed by lights and the presence of development. Although Playa Grande does have a few accommodations near the beach, they are set back from the shoreline and carefully managed to ensure that ambient light is kept to a minimum.
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Activities
Surfing is most people’s motivation for coming to Playa Grande, and if you don’t surf, there are people who will happily teach you.
Frijoles Locos (2652-9235; www.frijoleslocos.com; 9am-5pm) On the road into town, the friendly Ian and Corynne Bean rent and sell surfboards (US$15 to US$20 per day), give lessons (US$45 for one person, US$60 for two people), and offer massage therapy and naturopathic treatments.
Matos Films Surf Store (2652-9227; www.matosfilms.com; 8am-7pm) This Uruguayan-run surf shop rents surfboards (US$20 per day) and has free internet access for customers. You can even do a weekly rental arrangement for US$100 per week, swapping out boards from their quiver as often as you like.
Playa Grande Surf Camp (2653-1074; www.playagrandesurfcamp.com) Gerry and his cohorts will rent you short or long boards (US$20 per day), and show you how to ride ‘em.
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Sleeping & Eating
Hotels are well signposted from the main road into Playa Grande. It’s a good idea to bring a flashlight for walking around at night, as the roads are necessarily dark (and uneven).
Playa Grande Surf Camp (2653-1074; www.playagrandesurfcamp.com; r per person with/without air-con US$25/15; ) Next to El Manglar is this great budget option, run by surfing brothers Gerry and Patrick. The three A-frame cabinas with thatch roofs and two stilt cabinas (each sleeps four) with private hammock-strung porches, are just steps from the beach. Plus there’s surf lessons and board rentals.
El Manglar (2653-0952; www.hotel-manglar.com; d standard/deluxe/apt US$40/70/120; ) Near the southern end of the beach is this funky, friendly spot with brightly painted stuccoed rooms and lush, tropical grounds. Standard rooms have private cold showers, while deluxe rooms have hot water and slightly more space. The apartment has full kitchen and upstairs loft that’s perfect for kids.
Playa Grande Inn (2653-0719; www.playagrandeinn.com; r/ste US$58/87; ) Around the corner from the Rip Jack Inn, air-conditioned