Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [222]
Villa Baula (2653-0644/493; www.hotelvillabaula.com; d/tr US$60/75, bungalows with/without air-con US$110/100; ) Across from the estuary near the southern end of the beach, this rustic beachfront hotel emits virtually no ambient light at night. All rooms come with hot-water bathroom, while more expensive bungalows have air-con and optional kitchen. There’s an attractive pool, and this end of the beach is much quieter as it’s further from the best surfing.
Rip Jack Inn (2653-0480; www.ripjackinn.com; d/cabin US$70/90; ) Just south of Hotel Las Tortugas on the inland road, this comfy, convivial inn has a handful of clean, modern rooms with bathroom and air-con. There’s also a beautiful open-air bar-restaurant with stunning ocean views, plus regular yoga classes on offer.
La Marejada Hotel (2653-0594, in USA & Canada 800-559-3415; www.lamarejada.com; r incl breakfast US$70; ) Hidden behind a bamboo fence, this stylish boutique hotel is the friendliest, most relaxing hotel in Playa Grande. The eight elegantly understated rooms have air-con, a queen bed, bathroom with hot water, and a shared balcony overlooking the lush gardens and pool. The lovely owners, Carli and Gail, are friendly and attentive to your every need. A palm-shaded common area is strung with hammocks and leads to Marbar restaurant, famous for its breakfast treats such as eggs Benedict and French toast. And after a hard day of surfing, treat yourself to an in-house massage.
Hotel Las Tortugas (2653-0423; www.lastortugashotel.com; d/ste US$95/135, apt US$35-100; ) The owner of this hotel, Louis Wilson, is a local hero as he was instrumental in helping to designate Playa Grande as a national park. Although his hotel is near the beach, it was carefully designed to keep ambient light away from the nesting area, and to block light from development to the north. Eleven spacious rooms have air-con and hot-water bathroom, plus thick walls and small windows to enable daytime sleep after a night of turtle-watching. The hotel also has two apartments with kitchens for rent up the hill. Surfboards, body boards, sea kayaks, snorkels and horses can be rented. There’s a pool, Jacuzzi and a popular restaurant, and tours can be arranged.
Una Ola (2653-2682, in USA & Canada 888-958-7873; www.unaola.com; r US$100; ) Throw away your ‘surf camp’ clichés. Una Ola (‘one wave’ – we love the name) has redefined the scene with boutique chic. The intimate resort has eight whitewashed rooms in minimalist design, some with king-sized bed. Resort amenities include a communal kitchen with honor bar, large pool and a high-tech media entertainment room. For a serious surf vacation, consider the seven-night package (US$945 per person for a double) that includes transportation to and from the Liberia airport, lodging, breakfast, surf lessons, and surfboard and bike rentals.
Hotel Bula Bula (2653-0975; www.hotelbulabula.com; r incl breakfast US$120; ) A few hundred meters inland near the Tamarindo estuary is this recommended hotel, owned by two US expats (one of whom is a professional chef). The rooms are exquisite, with full amenities and original artwork on all the walls, and the landscaped grounds and free-form pool are perfect for relaxing after a hard day of surfing. But one of the biggest draws is The Great Waltini’s (dishes US$9 to US$16), the onsite restaurant serving only the freshest local seafood and some truly excellent grilled meats.
Kike’s Place (2653-0834; www.kikesplace.com; breakfast, lunch & dinner) On the road into town, take note of Kike’s (pronounced ‘kee-kays’), the friendly local bar and restaurant where you can shoot some pool, eat some ceviche and let your hair down.
Aside from eating at the hotels, try tasty Los Malinches (2653-0236; mains ₡2600-5000; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat), where you can dine on good, fresh seafood underneath a giant palapa. Next door, the Supermercado (7:30am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat)