Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [241]
The only cave with regular access to the public is the 62m-deep La Terciopelo, which has the most speleothems – calcite figures that rise and fall in the cave’s interior. The best known of these is El Órgano, which produces several notes when lightly struck. Scientists and other visitors are required to have permits from the park service to enter other caves. These include Santa Ana, the deepest (249m); Trampa (Trap), 110m deep with a vertical 52m drop; Nicoya, where early human remains were found; and, our favorite, Pozo Hediondo, or Fetid Pit, which is famous for its huge piles of bat droppings. Remember that caves cannot be entered after 1pm.
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Activities
While wildlife-watching underground, you’ll have the chance to see such fun-loving creatures as bat, albino salamander, blind fish and a variety of squiggly little invertebrates. On the surface, howler and white-faced monkey, armadillo, coati, kinkajou and white-tailed deer are regularly spotted, as are striped hog-nosed skunk and anteater.
For hiking, the Barra Honda hills have a few trails through deciduous, dry tropical rainforest that lead to waterfalls (in the rainy season) adorned with calcium formations. It’s also possible to hike to the top of Cerro Barra Honda, which has a lookout with a view that takes in the Río Tempisque and Golfo de Nicoya. Since this national park is comparatively untouristed and undeveloped, it is advised that you either inquire about the state of the trails before setting out, or hire the services of a guide.
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Sleeping & Eating
At the entrance to the park, there is a camping area (per person US$2) with bathrooms and showers. If you’re willing to help clear brush or maintain trails, the park has three dorm-style cabins (per person US$12) reserved for volunteers; each has a shower and six beds. Reserve accommodations and meals through the ACT office (2685-5667) in Nicoya or by calling the ranger station. Spanish is necessary.
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Getting There & Away
The easiest way to get to the park is from Nicoya. No buses go directly to the park; however, buses to Santa Ana (1km away) will get you close. These leave Nicoya at 12:30pm Monday to Saturday. Return buses leave Santa Ana at noon and 4:30pm. There are no buses on Sunday. The better option is to take a taxi from Nicoya, which will cost about ₡8000. You can arrange for your driver to pick you up later at a specified time.
If you have your own vehicle, take the peninsular highway south out of Nicoya toward Mansión and make a left on the access road leading to Puente La Amistad. From here, continue another 1.5km and make a left on the signed road to Barra Honda. The dirt road will take you to the village of Barra Honda and will then wind to the left for another 6km before ending up at the entrance to the national park. The community of Santa Ana is passed en route. The road is clearly marked, and there are several signs along the way indicating the direction of the park. After the village of Barra Honda, the road is unpaved, but in good condition. However, there is no telling what the next rainy season will do to it, so ask locally before setting out.
If you are coming to the park from Puente La Amistad, you will see the access road to Barra Honda signed about 16km after leaving the bridge. From this point, follow the above directions.
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PUENTE LA AMISTAD
Once made exclusively by ferry (car and passenger), the trip over the Río Tempisque has been completely transformed by the recent construction of a 780m bridge, now the largest in Costa Rica. The Puente La Amistad (Friendship Bridge) was built with Taiwanese financial support and opened in July 2003. There is a small parking area and observation platform on the western side of the river so that you can admire it and take photos (as the locals proudly do).
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NOSARA AREA