Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [242]
The attractive beaches near the small Tico village of Nosara are backed by a pocket of luxuriant vegetation that attracts birds and wildlife. The area has seen little logging, partly because of the nearby wildlife refuge, and partly because of real-estate development – an unlikely sounding combination.
There are a few hundred foreigners living permanently in the Nosara area (mainly North Americans), the majority of them keen on protecting the rainforest. One resident described the area as ‘sophisticated jungle living,’ and indeed blending retirement with conservation is an interesting experiment. However, Ticos remain hostile to the development of the area, mainly because land prices have been driven through the roof in just under a decade.
The Nosara area is a magical destination as you can sometimes see parrots, toucans, armadillos and monkeys just a few meters away from the beaches. There are three distinct beaches here. North of the river is Playa Nosara, which is difficult to access and primarily used by fishermen. Further south is Playa Pelada, a small crescent-shaped beach with an impressive blowhole that sends water shooting through the air at high tide. The southernmost beach is Playa Guiones, a 7km stretch of sand that’s one of the best surf spots on the central peninsula.
Nosara is not for everyone. If you’re not stoked on surf culture, you may find yourself bored silly. The upscale destination caters to monied surfers who live, eat and breathe the waves. And if you’re on a budget and looking for a more chilled surf town, head to Mal País and Santa Teresa (Click here).
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Orientation
The Nosara area is spread out along the coast and a little inland (making a vehicle a bit of a necessity). Nosara village, where you’ll find supplies and gas, and the airport are 5km inland from the beach. The main areas with accommodations, restaurants and beaches are Playa Pelada to the north and Playa Guiones to the south. There are many unidentified little roads, which makes it hard to get around if you don’t know the place – look for hotel and restaurant signs, and ask for help. Log on to Nosara Travel’s website (www.nosaratravel.com/map.html) for a handy map.
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Information
There are two gas stations in Nosara village, but only one was open during our visit.
Banco Popular (2682-0267/011; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) Changes US dollars and traveler’s checks, and gives cash advances on Visa cards only; the ATM also only accepts Visa cards.
Laundry Mat (8am-noon & 1-4pm) Coin-operated laundromat located next to Robin’s restaurant.
Nosara Travel (2682-0300; www.nosaratravel.com; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) In Playa Guiones, this office books air tickets, arranges car rentals and books hotel reservations or vacation homes.
Nosaranet & Frog Pad (2682-4039; www.thefrogpad.com; internet per hr ₡2000; 9am-8pm) The going rates for internet use are pretty astronomical in Nosara. The Frog Pad also has used books for sale, and DVDs, bikes and surfboards for rent.
Police (2682-0317) Next to the Red Cross and post office on the southeast corner of the soccer field in Nosara village center.
Seekret Spot (2682-0173; per hr ₡2000;10am-4pm) Internet access and international phone calls. Located on the main road to Playa Pelada.
Super Nosara (8am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun) Southwest of the soccer field, it changes US dollars and traveler’s checks. It’s also a good place to stock up on supplies – it’s cheaper than anything by the beaches.
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Activities
CANOPY TOURS
Miss Sky (2682-0969; www.missskycanopytour.com; adult/child US$60/30; 7am-5pm) has brought a canopy tour to Nosara. It’s the longest one in the world – at least for now – with a total length of 11,000m above a pristine, private reserve. The zip lines don’t go from platform to platform, but from mountainside to mountainside, and have double cables for added safety. The last of 21 zip lines whisks you directly into the top floor of the onsite disco-bar! Tours leave twice daily, at 8am and 2pm.
HIKING