Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [243]
The Reserva Biológica Nosara (2682-0573; www.lagarta.com) behind the Lagarta Lodge has private trails leading through a mangrove wetland down to the river (five minutes) and beach (10 minutes). This is a great spot for bird-watching, and there’s a good chance you’ll see some reptiles as well (look up in the trees as there are occasionally boa constrictors here). Nonguests can visit the reserve for US$6.
MASSAGE
After a hard day of surfing, treat yourself to a (totally legit) massage or spa treatment at Tica Massage (2682-0096; www.ticamassage.com; services US$35-80; 9am-6pm), across from Casa Tucan. Next door there’s a small gym (US$10 per day) with free weights and machines. Credit cards and traveler’s checks are accepted.
SURFING
Check out Playa Guiones for the best beach break in the central peninsula, especially when there is an offshore wind. Although the beach is usually full of surfers, there are fortunately plenty of take-off points.
At the main intersection in Guiones, the surf shop Coconut Harry’s (2682-0574; www.coconutharrys.com; 7am-5pm) offers private surfing lessons (US$35 per hour), board rental (US$20 per day) and repair, and long-term board storage (US$90 per year).
From here, turn left on the main road into Guiones past Café de Paris and you’ll find Nosara Surf Shop (2682-0186; www.nosarasurfshop.com; 7am-6pm). It rents surfboards (US$15 to US$20 per day), does board repairs and arranges surf lessons (US$40 per hour) and tours. Across the street from Kaya Sol, Tico-owned El Punto (2682-1081; www.surfocostarica.com; 8am-6pm) is a highly recommended surf shop that offers lessons (US$40 per hour) and rents surfboards (US$15 per day) and bicycles (US$10 per day).
TURTLE-WATCHING
Most hotels in the area can arrange guided tours to Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional, where you can watch the mass arrivals of olive ridley turtles.
YOGA
In the hills near Playa Guiones is the famous Nosara Yoga Institute (2682-0071, toll-free 866-439-4704; www.nosarayoga.com). The institute offers regular classes, open to the public, as well as workshops, retreats and instructor training courses. To practice in such a beautiful jungle setting, in airy studios ventilated by ocean breezes, is a wonderful experience for beginners or yogis (and yoginis) alike.
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Sleeping & Eating
All prices listed are for high season; low-season prices can be 20% lower or better.
PLAYA GUIONES
Kaya Sol (2682-1459; www.kayasol.com; dm with/without kitchen US$15/12, d US$30-85, cabin US$47-58; ) The heart of this sprawling surfer-and-seeker retreat is the dorm-style accommodations in the ‘flop house.’ The shared bathrooms are spotless and the pool, with waterfall shower, is perfect for cooling off. There are also a few rooms and private cabins with hot-water bathroom in the back of the property, as well as a beach house (US$110 per night). The restaurant serves US-style food, and the bar is the place to hang out at night. It’s down the road from the Mini Super Delicias.
Rancho Congo (2682-0078; rcongo@racsa.co.cr; r incl breakfast US$25-50; ) This three-room B&B is a sweet, German-run retreat with big rooms, hammocks and a quiet garden setting just off the main road.
Gilded Iguana Bar & Restaurant (2682-0259; www.thegildediguana.com; d US$51-62, ste US$85; ) Down the second access road to Guiones, this long-standing hotel for anglers and surfers has well-furnished, tiled rooms of varying sizes with hot-water bathroom and refrigerator. The tasty restaurant will grill your catch for you, and the attached bar is a popular gringo hangout.
Giardino Tropicale (2682-0258; www.giardinotropicale.com; s/d from US$68/79, ste US$141; ) On the main road, north of Marlin Bill’s, this collection of white-walled cabins offers various sizes and views. The pleasant quarters with solar-heated showers all look out to a lawn shaded by a huge tree, and there’s a pool for taking a cool dip. Deluxe rooms include a kitchen (without stove). There’s also a rambling, rustic restaurant (dishes ₡2800 to ₡5500) that’s popular