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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [244]

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for its thin-crust pizzas.

Café de Paris (2682-0087/1035; www.cafedeparis.net; d/tr US$80/92; ) This pleasant hotel is located at the corner of the main road and the first access road that leads to Playa Guiones. Shiny, clean rooms have plenty of polished woodwork, a bathroom and air-con, while larger bungalows and villas are great deals if you’re traveling in a group. The bakery-restaurant turns out heavenly French breads and pastries and is an excellent place to eat or pick up a lovely brioche.

Casa Romántica (2682-0272; www.casa-romantica.net; d incl breakfast from US$90; ) Right next to Playa Guiones is this recommended Spanish colonial mansion with several rooms with bathroom. The rooms all have views of the manicured gardens surrounding the pool. There is also private beach access, a small restaurant featuring international cuisine and well-being services (yoga and massage). Tours can be arranged. Credit cards are accepted.

Harbor Reef Lodge (2682-0059; www.harborreef.com; d US$95-149; ste US$129-239, casas per week from US$1495; ) These cool, tiled rooms with hot-water bathroom, air-con and fridge have wood detailing and attractive Latin American textiles. Suites are located on Playas Pelada and Guiones, and are much more expansive with a full kitchen. There are also two- and three-bedroom casas, and suites within casas, available for rent. They are pristine, secluded and guests can use the hotel’s facilities. To get here, continue beyond Nosara Surf Shop to where the road bends to the left as it hits the shore.

TOP SPOTS FOR A SPECTACULAR SMOOCH

The Península de Nicoya is blessed with endless romantic beaches, but if you’re looking for a dramatic backdrop for that cinematic kiss, here’s where to set the scene.

Head to Soda Piedra Mar in Mal País for breakfast with a view, then scramble on the rocks and find a secluded spot to watch the waves swoon.

Perched high on a bluff, Restaurante Mirador Barranquilla is stunning at sunset with the Pacific at your feet.

Wake up early and hike up to the Montezuma Waterfall (see boxed text) to have the pools to yourself.

Book a bungalow at romantic El Pequeño Gecko Verde, canoodle over cocktails followed by a sunset stroll on the secret beach, Playa Izquierda.

Pack picnic provisions, rent kayaks in the morning and paddle away from Sámara (Click here) to play castaway on uninhabited Isla Chora.

Harmony Hotel (2682-4114; www.harmonynosara.com; d US$214, 2-person bungalows US$305, 4-person ste US$463; ) Designed with clean lines and fostering a tranquil, happy atmosphere, this effortlessly stylish hotel lives up to its name in look and feel. Better, it also strives for harmony with the environment, employing a full-time sustainability coordinator and involving itself with the community and environmental initiatives. Simple but luxurious rooms have a spacious, private deck with outdoor shower and hammock, and bungalows afford even more privacy and space. Using fresh, organic ingredients as much as possible, the restaurant and bar (mains ₡4000 to ₡11,000) are worth a visit if you’re not staying here (reservations are recommended).

L’Acqua Viva Hotel & Spa (2682-1087; www.lacquaviva.com; r US$232, ste US$350-385, villas US$593-831; ) A bit of Bali in Nosara, L’Acqua Viva is one of the most luxurious hotels in the central peninsula. Inside and out, the property is simply stunning, with water, wood and bamboo features throughout. The open-air restaurant and funky lounge bar are the best in town. The 36 contemporary rooms are decorated in minimalist style with all the five-star amenities you’d expect. Yet we do have one major complaint: the location sucks, backing a busy road that’s far from the beach. Bring earplugs and a car.

Beach Dog Café (snacks ₡1000-3500; 7am-7:30pm; ) Just steps from the beach, our favorite new cafe in Nosara has the best breakfast in town. The delicious lunch menu includes organic salads, sandwiches, wraps, pasta and more. Early birds can come for free coffee from 7am to 7:30am. Otherwise, order your favorite espresso drink or smoothie from the

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