Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [250]
Hotel Mirador de Sámara (2656-0044; www.miradordesamara.com; tr incl breakfast US$95, apt US$105; ) Perched on a hill on the northern edge of town is this architecturally unusual hotel, complete with looming towers that offer dizzying views of the area. The ‘sky rooms’ can accommodate up to three, while the large apartments with kitchen can sleep up to six. There’s also a small private restaurant with panoramic views of the entire area.
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Sámara Tree House Inn (2656-0733; www.samaratreehouse.com; bungalows incl breakfast from US$110; ) These five stilt tree houses for grown-ups are so appealing that you might not want to move out. Fully equipped kitchens have pots and pans hanging from driftwood racks, the cable TVs spin on lazy Susans to face whichever room you’re in, and there’s wi-fi throughout. Even the bathroom tiling is gorgeous. Huge windows let in light and breezes, and hammocks are hung underneath the raised bungalows.
Villas Pepitas (2656-0747; www.villaspepitas.com; d/tr/q apt US$110/130/150, d/tr/q villas US$120/140/160; ) On the west side of town, just before crossing the river, these cheery yellow villas are like a sunny slice of Italy in a tropical garden setting. It’s quiet on this road, but just a short walk into town and to the beach. The owner is friendly but completely respectful of guests’ privacy and comfort.
El Pequeño Gecko Verde (2656-1176; www.gecko-verde.com; s/d/t $141, q $186; ) A hidden slice of heaven on earth, this stunning French-owned hotel is our favorite new B&B in Península de Nicoya. Five contemporary and beautifully decorated bungalows all have a fully equipped kitchen, flat-screen cable TV, a private terrace with hammock and outdoor dining area, plus our favorite feature, outdoor stone shower. A tropical garden of Eden surrounds the bungalows. Onsite amenities include a saltwater swimming pool with waterfall and a fabulous open-air restaurant and bar. Behind the property, a 400m jungle trail and steep cement staircase lead to a secret beach that doesn’t appear on any map – Playa Izquierda, a stunning cove beach backed by high cliffs with amazing sunset views.
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Eating
‘Out with the old and in with the new’ is the name of the game in Sámara. There are still some simple sodas left in town, but with each passing year the restaurant scene is reinventing itself to cater to a more sophisticated palate. Self-caterers can stock up on supplies at Super Sámara Market, east of the main road, or the smaller Super La Amistad on the main road by the beach.
Soda Sheriff Rustic (mains ₡1500-2800; breakfast, lunch & dinner) One of a few classic sodas in town. The beachside location sells itself, though the filling breakfasts, killer casados and low, low prices aren’t too bad either.
Restaurante Jardín Marino (2656-0934; mains ₡2000-10,500; lunch & dinner) This large, airy soda is always packed, and if you sit yourself down and order something here, you’ll see why. The typical food is fresh and of high quality – a casado de pescado here means grilled fish, not a deep-fried filet. It’s on the main road leading to the beach.
Restaurante Las Brasas (2656-0546; mains ₡2500-15,000; noon-late) This upscale Spanish restaurant on the main street has all the signature dishes including tortillas, paellas and roast suckling pig. It also has a well-stocked wine cellar, and the upstairs balcony is perfect for people-watching.
Shake Joe’s (2656-0252; mains ₡2800-8500; 11am-late) This hip beachside spot is awash with chilled-out electronica and cool, calm travelers lounging on the huge wooden outdoor couches. You can grab a burger here after your surf session, but the ambience is tops when the sun goes down and the drinks start to flow.
Al Manglar (2656-0096; mains ₡3000-5000; 5pm-10pm) Consistently