Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [251]
Casa Esmeralda (2656-0489; mains ₡3000-10,000; noon-9:30pm Mon-Sat) A favorite with locals, the extensive menu here has a good selection of Tico and international dishes. We loved the fish with avocado sauce, and the friendly staff. There are also a few sunny but overpriced rooms for rent upstairs.
Tabanuco (2656-1056; mains ₡6500-16,500; lunch & dinner) Named for the founder of Sámara, Esteban ‘Tabanuco’ Castillo Vargas, this posh beachfront bar-restaurant is the most upscale and romantic eatery in town. The open-air deck with driftwood beams is bathed in twinkling lights. The international menu features seafood and grilled meats. Don’t miss the crema de mariscos (cream of seafood soup).
El Lagarto (2656-0750; www.ellagartobbq.com; mains ₡9000-16,000; 11am-11pm; ) Grilled meats are the big draw at this beachfront alfresco restaurant draped by old trees. Watching the chefs work their magic on the giant wood-fired oven is part of the fun. Our New York strip steak was cooked to perfection. Wash it all down with the biggest margaritas you’ve ever seen. It’s a bit touristy and pricey but worth the splurge.
Return to beginning of chapter
Drinking & Entertainment
The coolest nightspot in town is the separated beachfront bar at Tabanuco (above), with a big tiled dance floor and surf videos; Friday is reggae night.
La Vela Latina, on the beach, serves sophisticated bocas and perfectly blended cocktails and sangría to guests sitting on wooden seats or rocking in comfy leather chairs. To settle in for the evening with some bocas and beers with the locals, check out Pablito’s Bar way on the west side of town.
On the main road, Shake Joe’s really gets going in the evenings with low lighting and trendy tunes. Tutti Frutti Discotheque (on the beach) keeps the music pumping late most weekends of the year, and is perennially popular with Ticos. Bar Olas is a good place to get started with an Imperial on a beach log.
The poshest new bar in town is Bar Arriba. As the name suggests, it’s located upstairs of an office building, offering prime people-watching views of the main drag below, and it serves Spanish tapas and airs US sports on TV.
Return to beginning of chapter
Shopping
Numerous vendors sell crafts and handmade jewelry at stands along the main road.
Koss Art Gallery (2656-0284) Visit Jaime at his outdoor studio on the beach, where he frequently displays his richly hued works in the high season. Call ahead for a viewing.
Galería Dragonfly (2656-0964; www.samaraarte.com) You’ll see Leonardo Palacios’ mural as you walk the main street; the gallery inside houses uniquely wrought jewelry in all sorts of media such as leather and seashells, along with sculpture, paintings and decorative pieces in a very organic style.
Also worth a stop is Mama Africa, which sells beautiful beaded leather sandals from Kenya. The Italian owners work directly with a Masai collective that crafts the sandals, and purchases support this work.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
The beach lies about 35km southwest of Nicoya on a well-paved road.
AIR
The airport serving Playa Sámara is nearer to Playa Carrillo (and is often referred to as Carrillo). Sansa flies daily to and from San José (one way/round-trip US$89/178). Book flights at Sámara Beach Travel Center.
BUS
Empresas Alfaro has a bus to San José (₡3600, five hours) that departs at 4:30am, 8:30am and 1pm Monday to Saturday. On Sunday there is only one bus at 9am. All buses depart from the main intersection just south of Entre Dos Aguas B&B.
Traroc buses to Nicoya (₡900, two hours) depart 11 times daily from the pulpería by the soccer field; there’s a more limited schedule on Sunday.
Return to beginning of