Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [252]
PLAYA CARRILLO
About 4km southeast of Sámara, this lazily curving beach with its palm-fringed boulevard is quieter and less developed. With its clean white sand, rocky headlands and backdrop of jungle, Carrillo is a postcard-perfect tropical beach. During weekends and holidays, the boulevard is lined with cars and the beach crowded with Tico families camped out festively beneath the palms.
The little town is on a hillside above the beach and attracts a trickle of surfers working their way down the coast, as well as schools of American sportfishers chasing billfish. About 200m east of the beach, La Selva (2656-2236; adult/child US$8/5; 8am-7pm) is a small wildlife refuge and botanical garden with monkeys, iguanas, alligators, coatis and other critters.
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Activities
SPORTFISHING
Kingfisher Sportfishing (2656-0091; www.costaricabillfishing.com) is a well-known local outfit, offering half- and full-day excursions from US$600.
SURF CASTING
You don’t have to drop big bucks to catch some nice-sized fish – do as the Ticos do and try your hand at surf casting. Most hotels and tour outfitters can set you up for a few dollars.
SURFING
Surfing here is better than at nearby Playa Sámara, though it’s nothing great. Mid- to high tide is when you can catch some decent waves.
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Tours
Carrillo Tours (2656-0543; www.carrillotours.com; 8am-7pm), on the road up the hill, organizes snorkeling, dolphin-watching, kayaking, horseback riding and trips to Palo Verde (Click here).
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Sleeping & Eating
All of the hotels listed below are at the eastern end of the beach on a hill. The beach is a five- to 10-minute walk down from most of these places.
Camping Mora (2656-0118; per person US$5; ) At the western end of the beach, this campsite has showers, bathrooms, electricity and potable water.
Casa Buenavista (2656-0385; www.samarabeach.com/casabuenavista; d incl breakfast US$45-55; ) A sweet Italian couple runs this two-room B&B. Each basic but homey room has its own hot-water bathroom, porch and entrance, and there’s a small shaded yoga terrace in the garden.
Cabinas El Colibrí (2656-0656; www.samarabeach.com/elcolibri; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$50/60/70; ) These Argentine-run cabinas are high on the hilltop, and come fully equipped with hot-water bathroom. Mini-apartments with kitchenette are the same price but don’t include breakfast. It’s a relaxed and comfortable spot, and you’ll be well fed at the attached restaurant, which serves traditional Argentine parrilladas (grilled meats) and empanadas (corn turnovers with minced meat).
Carrillo Club (2656-0316; www.carrilloclub.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$60/85/95/105, apt US$85; ) This pretty yellow inn on the hillside has a clutch of comfortable cabinas with a private terrace and hot-water bathroom. The two-person apartments are equipped with a kitchen. There’s a pool with ocean views, and the beach is a short walk downhill. Taking breakfast on the big front terrace is a treat, with beautiful, expansive views of Playa Carrillo below.
Hotel Arena Blanca (2656-2025; www.arenablancahotel.com; d incl breakfast US$111; ) Designed like a modern-day hacienda, this hotel employs rustic detail with contemporary polish. Backed by trees, the low-lying building circles a pool area, and the beach is only 150m away. Staff can arrange tours.
Hotel Esperanza (2656-0564; www.hotelesperanza.com; d incl breakfast US$120; ) Cheerful rooms at this recently remodeled hotel are set back from a columned promenade and open on to the pool area. The rooms are a bit small, but packed with amenities such as cable TV, DVD player, hair dryer and tropical artwork.
There is a number of small sodas along the road and soccer field.
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Getting There & Away
Regularly scheduled Sansa flights to and from San José (one way/round-trip US$89/178) use the airstrip just northwest of the beach. Some Traroc buses from Nicoya to Sámara continue on the well-paved road to Playa Carrillo – check