Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [253]
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ISLITA AREA
The coast southeast of Playa Carrillo remains one of the most isolated and wonderful stretches of coastline in the Nicoya peninsula, mainly because it’s largely inaccessible and lacking in accommodations. Regardless, if you’re willing to tackle some rugged roads or venture down the coastline in a sea kayak (or possibly on foot), you’ll be rewarded with abandoned beaches backed by pristine wilderness and rugged hills.
There are a few smaller breaks in front of the Hotel Punta Islita. Another good beach break lies north of Punta Islita at Playa Camaronal. This beach also happens to be a protected nesting site for leatherback, olive ridley, hawksbill and black turtles, and is officially known as Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Camaronal.
Playas Corzalito and Bejuco to the south of Punta Islita are both backed by mangrove swamps, and offer good opportunities for bird- and wildlife-watching.
Also worth a visit is the small town of Islita, which is home to the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo al Aire Libre, an open-air exhibition of contemporary art featuring mosaics, murals, carvings and paintings that adorn everything from houses to tree trunks. This project was organized by Hotel Punta Islita, which sells local art in its gift shop and invests proceeds in the community. If you’re interested in helping with the project, inquire at the hotel about volunteer possibilities in the community.
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Sleeping & Eating
You can camp on the beaches (without facilities) if you have a vehicle and are self-sufficient.
Hotel Punta Islita (2656-2020; www.hotelpuntaislita.com; d/ste incl breakfast US$349/489, casitas from US$559; ) This luxury resort should serve as an example of how to ethically operate a hotel in Costa Rica. In addition to organizing community arts projects, the hotel has sponsored the construction of various public buildings, including a new church, and is consistently working to integrate the rural community of Islita into its development. The hotel is on a hilltop, and has 40 fully equipped rooms with staggering ocean views; spend up for a suite (with a private outdoor Jacuzzi). The infinity pool and surrounding grounds are simply stunning, and the staff can arrange any tour you desire.
Restaurante Mirador Barranquilla (mains ₡2000-7000; 11am-midnight Wed-Mon) On the crest of a hill about 2km southeast of the hotel, the Mirador Barranquilla has breathtaking 180-degree views of Punta Islita and Playas Bejuco and San Miguel, and is the top place in the area for a sunset beer.
Cambute (mains ₡2800-5000; lunch & dinner) For something more low-key, this dressed-up soda serves excellent ceviche (uncooked, marinated seafood) and casados in a relaxed, riverside setting.
1492 Restaurant (2661-4044; mains ₡7000-14,000; breakfast, lunch & dinner) The movie 1492 was shot on location in Punta Islita, and some of the set pieces adorn the restaurant. The cuisine here, which is a fusion of Costa Rican and international food, is top quality – and the view is superlative.
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Getting There & Away
AIR
NatureAir and Sansa each fly once daily between San José and Punta Islita (one way/round-trip around US$95/190).
BUS
The closest you can get to Islita by bus is to take one of Empresa Arza’s two daily buses from San José that go through San Francisco de Coyote and on to Playas San Miguel and Bejuco. Keep in mind, though, that from Bejuco there is still a long uphill hike to Islita – and hitchhiking is almost impossible due to the lack of traffic.
CAR
Although Punta Islita is less than 10km by road southeast of Playa Carrillo, the coastal ‘road’ is wicked and requires some river crossings that are impossible in the wet season. See boxed text, for more information. The ‘easiest’ route is for you to head inland on the paved road from Playa Carrillo to the village of Estrada. When you come to the fork in the road, bear left (turning right would take you down the aforementioned scary road). At the ‘T’ intersection