Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [254]
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PLAYAS SAN MIGUEL & COYOTE
Just south of Playa Bejuco are arguably two of the most beautiful and least visited beaches in Costa Rica. Playa San Miguel, to the north, and Playa Coyote, to the south, are wilderness beaches of fine, silver-gray sand that are separated by the mouth of the Río Jabillo. Despite opportunities for great surfing, kayaking and just about anything else you want to do on a sandy strip of paradise, the beaches are nearly always abandoned (the lack of reliable public transportation is probably to blame). As if there weren’t enough reasons to visit, San Miguel and Coyote also serve as nesting grounds for olive ridley turtles.
There are no coastal villages to speak of, though a number of in-the-know foreigners have settled in the area and have built some beautiful accommodations near the shoreline. The nearest village is San Francisco de Coyote, which is 4km inland and has a few small sodas, cabinas and an internet cafe. For a good online map of the area, visit www.nicoyapeninsula.com/coyote/map.php.
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Activities
You can revel in the crowd-free beach breaks to surf off San Miguel, particularly when the tide is rising. At Coyote there is an offshore reef that can be surfed at high tide.
If swimming, you are advised to take precautions as the surf can pick up, and there are not many people in the area to help you in an emergency.
If you have your own sea kayak, these beaches (as well as nearby Islita) are perfect for coastal exploration.
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Sleeping & Eating
You can camp on both beaches if you’re self-sufficient, as there are no services.
Soda Familiar y Cabinas Rey (2655-1055; s/d US$8/15; ) For those taking the more direct (and treacherous) route to Mal País, this Tico-run soda in the village of San Francisco de Coyote is a good place to stock up on provisions and get some local advice. If it’s getting late, you might want to stay here as there are simple cabinas with private cold-water shower for rent. Believe it or not, this is a wi-fi hot spot.
Hotel Arca de Noé (2655-8065; dm US$10, d incl breakfast US$70, extra person US$10; ) Inland from the beach, this pleasantly landscaped, critter-friendly complex has 10 attractive doubles with a private hot-water shower and air-con. It grows many of its own fruits and herbs, has a dairy that provides the milk and cheese for the restaurant and has begun a community recycling program in the area.
Blue Pelican (2655-8046; d incl breakfast US$35-45; ) Near the center of Playa San Miguel is this quirky, purple wooden house. There’s a variety of rooms suited for singles to groups, including a great upstairs suite with ocean views and a private terrace. Just steps from the beach, the inn has an outdoor shower and board storage racks. The bar-restaurant (mains ₡2500 to ₡6500) has international dishes emphasizing fresh seafood, and the beer is cold.
Flying Scorpion (2655-8080; escorpionvolador.com; d incl breakfast US$45, apt US$75, houses US$100-250; ) Turn right at the Blue Pelican and continue on the dirt road along the beach for a few hundred meters to find this mellow inn with a handful of clean, very comfortable rooms, with new teak beds and an assortment of eclectic folk art. It has direct beach access for long days of surfing, and you’ll be happy to come back to the bar-restaurant’s homemade bread, pasta and ice cream. Run by an amiable couple and their pack of Weimaraners, this is a great spot to zone out for a few days or weeks.
Casitas Azul Plata (2655-8209; www.casitas-azulplata.com; d/tr apt US$70/80; ) This homey, German-run spot has a couple of two-bedroom apartments with a full kitchen, cable TV and hot-water shower. It’s a great choice for families, located on a quiet hillside.
Casa Caletas (2289-6060;