Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [257]
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Isla Guayabo, Islas Negritos & Los Pájaros
This cluster of islands was recently established as a biological reserve to protect nesting seabird populations, including the largest breeding colony of brown pelicans in Costa Rica along with frigate birds, boobies, egrets, peregrines and petrels. Although they’re not geographically close to one another, the islands are managed as a single unit. For the protection of the birds, no land visitors are allowed except researchers with permission from the park service. However, the reserves can be approached by boat, and the bird populations are large enough to be visible from the ocean.
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Isla Tortuga
Isla Tortuga, which consists of two uninhabited islands just offshore from Curú, is widely regarded as the most beautiful island in Costa Rica. The white-sand beaches feel like baby powder, there are gargantuan coconut palms overhead, and the coral reef is perfect for snorkeling. Unfortunately, Tortuga receives heavy boat traffic from tour operators from Montezuma and Jacó, but if you can visit during the week in low season it can be a magical place.
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Tours
Most travelers arrange tours either through the hotels listed here or with an operator in Montezuma or Jacó. However, this is one region where independence (and language skills) can make for a good adventure – inquire locally to find out if someone with a boat is willing to take you where you want to go for a fair price.
The most luxurious excursion is with Calypso Tours (2256-2727; www.calypsocruises.com). The company transports passengers to Isla Tortuga in a luxurious 21m motorized catamaran called the Manta Raya. It’s all flash with this boat, which has air-con, a couple of outdoor Jacuzzis and an underwater viewing window. The cost is US$199 – not a bad deal considering that the price includes transportation from San José, Quepos or Manuel Antonio, food and drinks.
COSTA RICAN WILDCAT CONSERVATIONISTS
Since 1992 Programa para la Conservación de Felinos (Profelis; Feline Conservation Program) has taken care of confiscated felines that were given to the center by the Ministerio del Ambiente y Energía (Minae; Ministry of Environment and Energy). The project concentrates on smaller felines, including the margay, ocelot and jaguarundi, and aims to rehabilitate and, when possible, reintroduce animals into the wild. In addition, a large component of the program involves the environmental education of the public.
Profelis is headquartered in Hacienda Matambú, a private wildlife reserve in San Rafael de Paquera, about 5km west of Paquera. Volunteers are sought after, especially those that have experience in either keeping animals or veterinary science. For more information on volunteering, visit www.grafischer.com/profelis or contact Profelis (2641-0644/6; profelis@racsa.co.cr).
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Sleeping
Hotels come and go quickly in these parts, but one place that has stood the test of time is Hotel Maquinay (2641-8011; www.maquinaylaperla.com; s/d US$30/50; ). In Playa Naranjo, this quaint hacienda-style hotel is a great deal, with comfortable fan-cooled rooms and shared terraces that look on to a tropical garden and swimming pool. It’s located on the road between Naranjo and Paquera.
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Getting There & Away
There is no public transportation in the area. The dirt road from Playa Naranjo to Paquera requires a 4WD for most of the year.
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PAQUERA
The tiny village of Paquera is about 25km by road from Playa Naranjo and 4km from the ferry terminal. Paquera is more of a population center than Playa Naranjo, though there’s little reason to stay here longer than you have to.
Banco Popular (8:15am-4pm), on the side street, can change US dollars and traveler’s checks. On the main road, across from the gas station, you’ll