Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [258]
There are a number of cabinas in the village, though the best option is Cabinas & Restaurante Ginana (2641-0119; d US$32; ), which has 28 simple and clean rooms with bathroom and optional air-con. There’s also a good restaurant (dishes ₡1500 to ₡3000) in case you need a bite to eat before getting on the ferry.
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Getting There & Away
All transportation is geared to the arrival and departure of the Puntarenas ferry. If either is running late, the other will wait.
BOAT
Ferry Naviera Tambor (2641-2084; www.navieratambor.com; adult/child/car ₡810/485/1900) leaves daily at 6am, 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm, 7pm and 9pm (the last ferry doesn’t run in low season). The trip takes about an hour. Buy a ticket at the window, reboard your car and then drive onto the ferry; you can’t buy a ticket on board. Show up at least an hour early on holidays and busy weekends. The terminal contains a soda where you can grab a bite while waiting for the boat.
BUS
Buses meet passengers at the ferry terminal and take them to Paquera, Tambor and Montezuma. The bus can be crowded, so try to get off the ferry fast to get a seat.
Most travelers take the bus from the terminal directly to Montezuma (₡1400, two hours). Many taxi drivers will tell you the bus won’t come, but this isn’t true. There are no northbound buses.
TAXI
Getting several travelers together to share a taxi is a good option since the ride will take half as long as the bus. The ride to Montezuma is about ₡5000 per person, and to Mal País it’s about ₡7000 – provided you can get enough people together.
A 4WD taxi to Playa Naranjo costs about ₡15,000 for up to four people.
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REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE CURú
This small 84-hectare refuge (2641-0100; www.curuwildliferefuge.com; day fee US$10; 7am-3pm), which is now part of a larger protected area of almost 15 sq km, is a wilderness gem in the largely deforested peninsula. Situated at the eastern end of the peninsula and only 6km south of Paquera, the tiny Curú holds a great variety of landscapes, including dry tropical forest, semideciduous forest and five types of mangrove swamp. The rugged coastline is also home to a series of secluded coves and white-sand beaches that are perfect for snorkeling and swimming.
The refuge is privately owned by the Schutts, a Tico family whose roots in the area go back more than 75 years. They have long been active in environmental efforts, and were instrumental in having the area designated a wildlife refuge. Currently, they are working to reintroduce species to the area, including the scarlet macaw and the rare mono tití, or squirrel monkey.
The entrance to the refuge is clearly signed on the paved road between Paquera and Tambor (it’s on the right-hand side). Day visitors can show up anytime during operating hours and pay the day fee to hike the trails and visit the reserve. In addition, a variety of tours are available – from horseback riding and kayaking through the estuary to snorkeling and guided hikes. The Schutts can arrange transportation to the reserve from Paquera, and travel agencies in Montezuma (Click here) can arrange guided day tours.
Seventeen well-marked, easy to moderate trails take visitors through the different ecosystems; maps are available at the entrance. Readers recommend hiring a guide as it greatly increases your chances of spotting wildlife. The forested areas are the haunts of deer, monkey, agouti and paca, and three species of cat have been recorded. Iguana, crab, lobster, chiton, shellfish, sea turtle and some other marine creatures can be seen on the beaches and in the tide pools. Bird-watchers have recorded more than 232 bird species throughout the reserve, though there are probably more.
Camping is not allowed in the reserve,