Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [259]
Return to beginning of chapter
PLAYAS POCHOTE & TAMBOR
These two mangrove-backed gray-sand beaches are protected by Bahía Ballena, the largest bay on the southeastern peninsula, and are surrounded by a few small fishing communities. In the past 15 years, however, the area has slowly developed as a resort destination; the outcome has been less than green. Fortunately, there are a few good choices for accommodations in the area, and for the most part Pochote and Tambor are untouristed, providing plenty of opportunities for hiking, swimming, kayaking and even whale-watching.
The beaches begin 14km south of Paquera, at the community of Pochote, and stretch for about 8km southwest to Tambor – they’re divided by the narrow and wadeable estuary of the Río Pánica.
Return to beginning of chapter
Activities
Both beaches are safe for swimming, and there are occasional whale sightings in the bay. The gentle waters also make this a good spot for kayaking. Although the mangroves are not set up for hiking, Curú is just down the road.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sleeping
There are a number of all-inclusive, very expensive, environmentally questionable resorts around here – if you want more information, talk to your travel agent.
Cabinas Cristina (2683-0028; s/d US$22/27; ) These recommended cabinas are run by the always welcoming Eduardo and Cristina, a Tico couple who are eager to show you the real beauty of the area. Rooms are simple and spotless, and accommodate travelers of all budgets. There’s also a small restaurant, and the owners can give you good advice about booking tours in the area.
Costa Coral Hotel (2683-0105; www.hotelcostacoral.com; d incl breakfast US$105-120; ) Canadian-owned and Texan-managed, this newly remodeled boutique hotel is better than ever, with 10 colorful Spanish-colonial villas that accommodate up to four people, with hot-water bathroom, cable TV, DVD player and your own terrace overlooking the gardens and pool. The real highlight is the excellent restaurant and bar that’s popular with guests and locals alike.
Tambor Tropical (2365-2872; www.tambortropical.com; ste US$163-222;) Romantically set on the beach amid a palm-fringed garden, Tambor Tropical is a lovely boutique hotel with stunning architecture. The 12 suites all have dark wood interiors, full kitchen and private veranda. There’s no air-con but the ocean breeze will keep you cool on all but the hottest days.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
The airport is just north of the entrance to Hotel Barceló Playa Tambor. Hotels will arrange pickup at the airport for an extra fee. Between them, Sansa and NatureAir (one way/round-trip US$75/150) have about six daily flights to San José.
Paquera–Montezuma buses pass through here.
Return to beginning of chapter
CóBANO
Cóbano has two gas stations, a post office, clinic, pharmacy, Mega Super grocery store and Banco Nacional (2642-0210; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat), making it the only real ‘city’ (it’s hardly even a town) in the southeastern peninsula. Although there are a few hotels and restaurants here, there’s no reason to stay since Montezuma is only 5km away.
Paquera–Montezuma buses pass through here, and a 4WD taxi to Montezuma costs about ₡5000.
Return to beginning of chapter
MONTEZUMA
Up until the late 1990s, a traffic jam in Montezuma was getting off your bike to shoo some cows off the road, a tourist was someone who left after only a month, a night out was rolling a spliff on the beach instead of in your hammock, a good time was – OK, you get the idea. Montezuma was one of the original ‘destinations’ in Costa Rica, and its remote location and proximity to Costa Rica’s first nature reserve, Cabo Blanco, attracted hippies, artists and dreamers alike. You had to work to get