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Montezuma is still a charming village, and foreign travelers continue to be drawn here by the laid-back atmosphere, cheap hotels and sprawling beaches. And while nothing ever stays the same, Montezuma has managed to hang on to its tranquil appeal. Typical touristy offerings, such as canopy tours, do a brisk trade here, but you’ll see – in the yoga classes, the volunteer opportunities, the arts festivals, the vegan food and the neo-Rastafarians hawking ganja – that the town stays well in touch with its hippie roots. It’s no surprise that locals lovingly call this town ‘Montefuma.’

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Information

The only ATM in town is located across from Chico’s Bar, and it’s regularly empty of cash on busy weekends. Plan ahead. The nearest full-service bank is in Cóbano (see above). For money exchange, tour operators in town will take US dollars, euros or traveler’s checks, though you can expect to pay a heavy commission.

El Parque (per kg ₡900;7am-8pm) The best place in town to get your laundry done. It also rents bikes (US$10 per day) and scooters (US$35 per day).

Librería Topsy (2642-0576;8am-1pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Has US newspapers and magazines, and a large lending library with books in several languages. It also serves as the unofficial post service, selling stamps and making regular mail drops at Cóbano’s post office.

Sun Trails (2642-0808; per hr ₡1000;9am-9pm) Internet access.

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Sights & Activities

Kerri Bowers and César Benavides of Proyecto Montezuma (www.proyectomontezuma.com) run an innovative volunteer program that not only gives to the community, but fosters cultural exchange, pays fair wages to its employees and gifts you something for giving of your time and energy. You choose the project in which you’d like to participate, such as teaching local classes or removing trash from the beach and jungle, and you also sign up for a sustainable adventure tour around Montezuma. Long-term opportunities are also available; hit the website for details.

BEACHES

Picture-perfect white-sand beaches are strung out along the coast, separated by small rocky headlands and offering great beachcombing and tide-pool studying. Unfortunately, there are strong rips along the entire coastline, so inquire locally before going for a swim and take care. For more information on riptides see boxed text.

The beaches in front of the town are nice enough, but the further northeast you walk, the more isolated and pristine they become. During low tide, the best snorkeling is in the tide pools, and at Playa Las Manchas, 1km west of downtown. There’s great surf if you’re willing to walk the 7km up the coastline to Playa Grande, or if you head south about 3km to Playa Cedros.

Because of the town’s carefree boho feel, topless and (sometimes) nude sunbathing have become de rigueur on some beaches. No one is likely to say anything if you choose to go topless, but keep in mind that Ticos are fairly conservative and many residents find the scene disrespectful of their town.

BUTTERFLY GARDEN

The Montezuma Gardens (8888-4200; www.montezumagardens.com; admission US$8; 8am-4pm) are about 1km up the hill toward Cóbano, alongside the waterfall trail. You can take a tour through this lush mariposario (butterfly garden) and nursery where the mysterious metamorphoses occur. On your walk, you’ll learn about the life cycles and benefits of a dozen local species, of which you’ll see many colorful varieties. The lovely Oregonian family running the gardens also has a B&B here and offers excellent live-work opportunities.

CANOPY TOURS

After you’ve flown down nine zip lines, the Montezuma Waterfall Canopy Tour (2642-0808; www.montezumatraveladventures.com; US$45) winds up with a hike down – rather than up – to the waterfalls; bring your swimsuit. Book at the Sun Trails office.

HIKING & HORSEBACK RIDING

Inland from Montezuma is the Reserva Absoluta Nicolás Wessburg, a private conservation area that was the original site of Nicholas Olof Wessburg