Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [262]
Camping is illegal on the beaches. There is a small, shaded campground (per person US$3) with bathrooms and cold-water showers only a 10-minute walk north of town.
Hotel Lys (2642-1404; www.hotellysmontezuma.net; camping US$6, r without bathroom per person US$16) This beachside budget hotel with laid-back vibe is run by a group of funky Italians who are bursting with creativity. The owners have also launched a project known as Libre Universidad de Montezuma. This evolving concept is based on communication through artistic expression. Unfortunately, maintenance is slipping and the tiny rooms could use a spring cleaning.
Pensión Jenny (r without bathroom per person US$10) This lovely white-and-blue country house north of the soccer field is a bit removed from the action, which makes it a good option if you want a quiet night’s sleep.
Hotel Lucy (2642-0273; dm US$10, s/d without bathroom US$13/26; ) This beachside pensión is popular with shoestring travelers, and was the first budget place to open up in town. It’s an excellent deal in this price range, with hammocks, tables and chairs on the shared terraces. There’s free coffee and fruit in the mornings, a communal fridge and a new communal kitchen. Ask for a room upstairs – the ocean views and verandas make all the difference.
Mochila Inn (2642-0030; d without bathroom US$19, d/tr cabinas from US$25/30; ) On a quiet hillside north of town, this secluded inn is brimming with wildlife and is silent (except for the sounds of the rainforest) at night. There are a variety of rooms available that cater to different budgets, though everyone can use the outdoor toilets, which offer only a thin curtain between yourself and nature. (If you bring binoculars, you can watch nature from the throne.)
El Pargo Feliz (2642-0065; d US$25-35; ) The best budget deal in town – you can’t beat the location of these beachfront cabinas in the heart of Montezuma. Simple but clean rooms have fan, bathroom and free wi-fi. The communal balcony and garden terrace have relaxing hammocks with sea views, and at night the surf will lull you to sleep.
Luna Llena (2642-0390; www.lunallenahotel.com; s without bathroom US$25, d without bathroom US$35-50; ) On the northern edge of town on a hilltop overlooking the bay is this delightful German-US–run budget option that’s terrific value. There are 12 rooms in a variety of sizes and prices, all with mosquito net, fan and safe large enough to fit a laptop. All rooms have shared bathrooms except the villa with a private bathroom and a covered patio. There are two fully equipped kitchens, a BBQ grill and a communal lounge with stunning ocean views. You can also rent surfboards and bicycles (US$15 per day).
Hotel La Aurora (2642-0051; www.playamontezuma.net/aurora.htm; s without bathroom US$25-45, d without bathroom US$30-50; extra person US$5; ) Reader-recommended Hotel La Aurora has a pretty, vine-covered yellow building with an assortment of 15 comfortable rooms with fan, orthopedic bed and mosquito net; others have varying degrees of cold or hot water and air-con. There’s a communal kitchen and plenty of hammocks for chilling out.
Hotel Los Mangos (2642-0076; www.hotellosmangos.com; d with/without bathroom US$75/35, tr bungalows US$95; ) This is a charming hotel offering bright, clean orange-and-blue doubles with shared hot-water bathrooms in the main building and bungalows with private bathrooms scattered around the mango-dotted gardens. There is also a small wooden pavilion near the base of the hills where daily yoga classes (Click here) take place.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Montezuma
All hotels have private hot-water showers.
Hotel La Cascada (2642-0057; www.hotellacascadamontezuma.com; d incl breakfast US$50, extra person US$15; ) By the river en route to the waterfalls, this classic Montezuma hotel has 15 simple wooden rooms with ocean views and a 2nd-floor deck that’s fully strung with cozy hammocks – perfect for swinging or snoozing.
Hotel El Tajalin (2642-0061; www.tajalin.com; d US$50, d superior US$60-70; ) This delightfully quiet hotel