Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [263]
Hotel Amor de Mar (2642-0262; www.amordemar.com; d US$58-124, houses from US$210; ) At the southern end of town, this charming, serene place has a well-manicured lawn strewn with palms and strung with luxurious hammocks, all fronting a beautiful beach with a tide pool big enough to swim in. There are 11 rooms of different shapes and sizes with varying amenities depending on your budget.
Hotel El Jardín (2642-0548; www.hoteleljardin.com; d US$85-95, 4-person villas US$135; ) This hillside hotel has 15 luxurious stained-wood cabinas of various sizes and amenities (some have a stone bathroom and ocean views). The grounds are landscaped with tropical flowers and lush palms, and there’s a pool and Jacuzzi for soaking your cares away.
Luz de Mono (2642-0090; www.luzdemono.com; d/ste/casitas incl breakfast US$85/100/140; ) Once the landmark hotel in town, Luz de Mono is now tired and worn out. The once popular bar and restaurant has shut down and service is slipping. That said, the rooms are clean with a solar-heated shower (some with Jacuzzi), ceramic tiles and wooden accents.
Around Montezuma
Nature Lodge Finca Los Caballos (2642-0124; www.naturelodge.net; d incl breakfast US$97-165, extra person US$20; ) North of Montezuma on the road to Cóbano, this 16-hectare ranch is adjacent to the Reserva Absoluta Nicolás Wessburg. The lodge has a variety of rooms around the property with either jungle or ocean views. The Canadian owner prides herself on having some of the best looked-after horses in the area, and there are great opportunities here for riding on the trails around the reserve. You can also rent bikes, go hiking, have a meal in the restaurant or splash around the infinity pool.
Ylang-Ylang Beach Resort (2642-0636; www.ylangylangresort.com; luxury tents US$160, d/ste US$195/235, standard/deluxe bungalows US$265/295, all incl breakfast & dinner; ) About a 15-minute walk north of town along the beach is this resort catering to holistic holiday-seekers. Here you’ll find a collection of beautifully appointed rooms, suites and polygonal bungalows with hot showers (some open-air). The newest accommodations option are ‘jungalows,’ six raised, ecofriendly luxury tents with fan, fridge and shared bathroom. The lush property contains a palm-fringed swimming pool, yoga center, gourmet organic restaurant and spa. The bar is one of the best places in town to enjoy a sunset cocktail. Oh, and you can’t actually drive here, though staff will pick you up in their custom beach cruisers from El Sano Banano.
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Eating
Self-caterers should head to the Super Montezuma for fresh food.
Buen Provecho (2642-0717; mains ₡1500-3500; 6am-1pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat) By day, it’s a quaint cafe with homemade bagels, bread and breakfast sandwiches. At night, it becomes a popular hookah bar with tasty tapas.
Bakery Café (2642-0458; sanforest@hotmail.com; mains ₡2500-5200; 6am-10pm; ) Grab a chair on the outdoor patio of this homey place with an international menu featuring everything from Indian and Thai to Mexican and Italian. The best time to dine is breakfast, for fantastic omelettes, pancakes, homemade banana bread and French toast. The frolicking bird and monkey show in the garden is free.
Soda La Naranja (2642-1001; mains ₡2800-5000; 7:30am-10pm Mon-Sat) With typical food on the main strip, this soda has a nice shaded patio next to Orgánico and reasonably priced eats.
Puggo’s (2642-0308; mains ₡4000-7000; 8am-10:30pm) A welcomed addition to Montezuma, this promising new Israeli-owned restaurant decorated like a Bedouin tent specializes in Middle Eastern cuisine including falafel,