Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [264]
Cocolores (2642-0348; mains ₡4000-11,000; 5-10pm Tue-Sun) One of the best restaurants in Montezuma, beachside Cocolores has a pleasant, thatched-roof patio for candlelit dinners. The menu focuses on French-influenced cuisine, as well as some Tico-fusion standards. The curry and coconut shrimp with spicy mango chutney is divine. However, with only 12 tables, long lines and haughty hosts at the front door, it’s one of the toughest tables in town.
Orgánico (www.organicomontezuma.com; mains ₡4400-5500; 8am-late; ) When they say ‘pure food made with love,’ they mean it – this healthy cafe turns out all vegetarian or vegan dishes including spicy Thai burgers, sushi and noodles, nachos, burritos, falafel, smoothies and other meat-free treats you can feel good about.
El Sano Banano (2642-0638; mains ₡4500-12,700; breakfast, lunch & dinner; ) This restaurant is way overpriced for simple dishes – 12 bucks for a casado? But it’s worth showing up in the evening when the restaurant shows nightly films for ₡3000 minimum consumption.
Playa de los Artistas (2642-0920; www.playamontezuma.net/playadelosartistas.htm; mains ₡5000-10,000; lunch & dinner Thu-Sat, lunch only Mon-Wed, closed Sun) This artfully decorated beachside spot is the most adored and romantic restaurant in town. The international menu with heavy Mediterranean influences changes daily depending on locally available ingredients, though you can always count on fresh seafood and impeccable culinary sophistication.
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Drinking & Entertainment
There are a few bars in town, and you can stop by El Sano Banano to check out which movie it’s screening that night.
Chico’s Bar is a sprawling complex of bars, tables, beach chairs and dance space with the music turned up loud – making it party-central most nights, especially reggae-night Thursdays. If you can score a table outside, it can be sort of romantic. The bar area seems to be a magnet for local cougars, which, depending on your viewpoint, may not be such a bad thing.
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Getting There & Away
BOAT
A fast passenger ferry connects Montezuma to Jacó in only one hour. At ₡20,000 or so, it’s not cheap, but it’ll save you a day’s worth of travel. Boats depart at 9:30am daily and the price includes van transfer from the beach to Jacó bus terminal. Book in advance from any tour operator. Dress appropriately; you will get wet.
BUS
Buses depart Montezuma from the sandy lot on the beach, across from the soccer field. Buy tickets directly from the bus driver. To get to Mal País and Santa Teresa, go to Cóbano and change buses.
Cabo Blanco via Cabuya ₡600; 45 minutes; departs 8:15am, 10:15am, 2:15pm and 6:15pm.
Cóbano ₡400; 30 minutes; departs every two hours from 8am to 8pm.
Paquera ₡1300; 1½ hours; departs 5:30am, 8am, 10am, noon, 2:15pm and 4pm.
San José ₡5800; six hours; departs 6:15am and 2:30pm.
CAR & TAXI
During the rainy season, the stretch of road between Cóbano and Montezuma is likely to require a 4WD. In the village itself, parking can be a problem, though it’s easy enough to walk everywhere.
A 4WD taxi can take you to Mal País (₡15,000) or Cóbano (₡4000).
Montezuma Expeditions (www.montezumaexpeditions.com) operates private shuttles to San José (US$40), La Fortuna (US$45), Tamarindo (US$40) and Sámara (US$40).
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CABUYA
This tiny village is scattered along a dirt road about 9km south of Montezuma. Although it’s rather uninteresting, it’s worth visiting the town cemetery, which is on Isla Cabuya and can only be reached when a natural land bridge magically appears at low tide. Here you’ll find a few modest graves marked by crosses, though make sure you keep an eye on the tides!
Aside from visiting the cemetery, most travelers either pass through Cabuya on their way to Cabo Blanco or use the town as a base for exploring Cabo Blanco.
Coming from Montezuma, the first