Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [265]
Turning down the signed side road, you’ll find the Howler Monkey Hotel (2642-0303; www.howlermonkeyhotel.com; bungalows US$60; ). These are cute A-frame bungalows with kitchenettes. They are perfectly clean and comfortable, and the place is right on a slice of very quiet, rocky beach. This decent midrange hotel is run by friendly US expats and was undergoing renovation during our visit.
ALONG THE WEST COAST BY 4WD
If you are truly adventurous, have a lot of time on your hands and some experience driving in places where there is nary a road in sight, you might be ready to take on the southern Pacific coast of Península de Nicoya. Make sure you have a 4WD with high clearance though, as well as a comprehensive insurance policy. Do not attempt this drive during the rainy season.
Mal País, Montezuma and Cabo Blanco are most frequently reached by the road that follows the eastern part of the peninsular coast and connects with the ferry from Puntarenas in Playa Naranjo. However, if you’re looking for some adventure in your life, it’s possible to take a 4WD from Playa Carrillo along the southeast coast to Islita, Playa Coyote, south to Mal País and points beyond. Again, don’t even think of trying to do any of this in a regular car.
As the crow flies, it’s about 70km of ‘road’ from Playa Carrillo to Mal País, though you should allow at least five hours for the trip (provided you encounter no delays). Several rivers have to be forded, including the Río Ora about 5km east of Carrillo, which is impassable at high tide during the dry season, even for 4WDs; check tide schedules.
From Playa Coyote, drivers will cross a few more rivers, including the Ríos Bongo and Arío, and pass by Playas Caletas, Arío and Manzanillo (you can camp on any of these beaches if you’re self-sufficient). There are some pretty hairy river crossings throughout this stretch, so it certainly helps to talk to locals before setting out. In some cases the road doesn’t cross directly through the river, and you’ll have to drive up the river a bit to find the egress. In these cases, it is best to walk the river first, double-check the egress and then drive in so that you don’t plunge your rental car into thigh-deep mud or onto a pile of rocks. Many a rental vehicle has been lost to this stretch of road, so it definitely pays to be cautious (see boxed text).
From Playa Manzanillo head inland to Cóbano, which is well connected to Montezuma, Mal País and Cabo Blanco by reasonable dirt roads.
For the majority of the trip there are a couple of villages, no facilities, and few people that can help you if you get stuck. Also, the roads are unsigned, so getting lost will be part of the deal, though you can always navigate with a compass and the sun. Take a jerry can of gas, your favorite snack foods and plenty of water – if you break down, plan on spending some quality time on your own or with your traveling companion.
For very good reason, Costa Rica’s tourist office recommends against undertaking this journey.
For everything else, make a pit stop at Café Coyote (mains ₡2800-3400; ). The owners serve pizza, seafood and veggie meals, and offer internet access. Panadería Cabuya (2642-1184; 6am-9pm; ) is a local landmark serving fresh bread and strong coffee.
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RESERVA NATURAL ABSOLUTA CABO BLANCO
Just 11km south of Montezuma is Costa Rica’s oldest protected wilderness area. Cabo Blanco is comprised of 12 sq km of land and 17 sq km of surrounding ocean, and includes the entire southern tip of the Península de Nicoya. The moist microclimate present on the tip of the peninsula fosters the growth of evergreen forests, which are unique when compared with the dry