Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [266]
The park was originally established by a Danish-Swedish couple, the late Karen Mogensen and Nicholas Olof Wessburg, who settled in Montezuma in the 1950s and were among the first conservationists in Costa Rica. In 1960 the couple was distraught when they discovered that sections of Cabo Blanco had been clear-cut. At the time, the Costa Rican government was primarily focused on the agricultural development of the country (see boxed text), and had not yet formulated its modern-day conservation policy. However, Karen and Olof were instrumental in convincing the government to establish a national park system, which eventually led to the creation of the Cabo Blanco reserve in 1963. The couple continued to fight for increased conservation of ecologically rich areas, but tragically Olof was murdered in 1975 during a campaign in the Península de Osa. Karen continued their work until her death in 1994, and today they are buried in the Reserva Absoluta Nicolás Wessburg, which was the site of their original homestead.
Cabo Blanco is called an ‘absolute’ nature reserve because prior to the late 1980s visitors were not permitted. Even though the name hasn’t changed, a limited number of trails have been opened to visitors, but the reserve remains closed on Monday and Tuesday to minimize environmental impact.
Return to beginning of chapter
Information
The ranger station (2642-0093; admission US$10; 8am-4pm Wed-Sun) is 2km south of Cabuya at the entrance to the park, and trail maps are available. It is not possible to overnight in the park, though there are plenty of options in nearby Cabuya or Montezuma. Bring drinks and snacks as there is no food or water available.
The average annual temperature is about 27°C (80°F) and annual rainfall is some 2300mm at the tip of the park. Not surprisingly, the trails can get muddy, so it’s best to visit in the dry season, from December to April.
Return to beginning of chapter
Activities
WILDLIFE-WATCHING
Monkey, squirrel, sloth, deer, agouti and raccoon are usually present, and armadillo, coati, peccary and anteater are occasionally sighted.
The coastal area is known as an important nesting site for the brown booby, mostly found 1.6km south of the mainland on Isla Cabo Blanco (White Cape Island). The name ‘Cabo Blanco’ was coined by Spanish conquistadors when they noticed that the entire island consisted of guano-encrusted rocks. Other seabirds in the area include the brown pelican and the magnificent frigate bird.
HIKING
From the ranger station, the Swedish Trail and Danish Trail lead 4.5km down to a wilderness beach at the tip of the peninsula. Note that both trails intersect at various points, and it’s possible to follow one down and return via the other. Be advised that the trails can get very muddy (especially in the rainy season), and are fairly steep in certain parts – plan for about two hours in each direction. From the beach at the end of the trails it’s possible to follow another trail to a second beach, though check first with park rangers as this trail is impassable at high tide.
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting There & Away
Buses (₡600, 45 minutes) depart from the park entrance for Montezuma at 7am, 9am, 1pm and 4pm. A taxi from Montezuma to the park costs about ₡7000.
During dry season, you can drive (4WD required) for 7km from Cabuya to Mal País via the stunningly scenic Star Mountain Road, so called because it passes by the Star Mountain Eco Resort.
Return to beginning of chapter
MAL PAÍS & SANTA TERESA
Mal País (Bad Country) refers to the southwestern corner of Península de Nicoya that’s famous among surfers for its consistent waves. The area lies more or less north to south along the coastline, with Santa Teresa being the largest village in the area. Further south is the smaller village of Playa El Carmen, and more southerly still is Mal País, the village. ¿Comprende? Don